We went to a South American-style steakhouse last night, and what impressed me most at Texas de Brazil
was the salad bar (a tiny corner of which is shown, right)
. Restaurateur Salim Aswari
, who opened the first American rendition of the Brazilian churrascaria
in Addison, TX, in 1998, told a Dallas Observor,
“We want to be the P.F. Chang’s of steakhouses.” Good for his bank balance (the privately held chain raked in $50 million last year), but not inspiring for diners who want something other than a “concept” that will fly across the country.
There are (or will be by the end of 2007) three Texas de Brazil restaurants clustered around Dallas (Dallas, Fort Worth and the original in Addison), three in Florida (Miami, Orlando and Miami Beach), two in Virginia (Norfolk and Fairfax), two in Illinois (Schaumburg and Chicago) and one each in Las Vegas and Denver — the last where my husband and I and two other couples went last night.
Churrasco, the Brazilian equivalent of barbecue, is derived from on-the-range grilling in the cattle lands of the southern part of the country. Brazil de Texas’s all-you-can-eat shtick involves a squadron of “gauchos” who bustle from table to table with chunks of open-fire grilled meats skewered onto big swords, like shish–kebobs on steroids. Each “gaucho” comes around bearing two skewers of beef (filet or picanha, a seasoned top sirloin that is the house specialty), pork, lamb, Brazilian sausage or chicken, which he will flick onto your plate on request. Want your meat medium-rare? The piece on the bottom of the skewer is medium-rare. Want it medium-well? The piece on the bottom of the skewer is medium-well. The picanha was best-tasting of the meats. The chicken was tender but didn’t have much flavor — not even bacon flavor to the bacon-wrapped chicken or any hint of cheese in the grilled Parmesan chicken. Small sides of garlic mashed potatoes and grilled bananas (“to cleanse your palate,” explained the waiter) were brought to the table. Bottom line is that not even the most ardent carnivores among us truly raved about the meats.
The salad bar was the star of the meal, and it is such a star that I’d return just for that. The 50 or 60 items were opulently displayed as if on a cruise ship or at a Club Med, but the offerings were not just there for show. Here, quality matched quantity, and everything tasted really good. One bowl held romaine lettuce hearts and one contained mixed greens, but there were no sprouts, no grated carrots, no underripe tomatoes, no radishes, no cottage cheese, no straight-from-the-can beans or chickpeas, no wilted green peppers — in short, nothing that makes the average salad bar so depressing.
Everything (and I mean everything) so artfully arranged on a large, square buffet, was over-the-top beautiful and very good or better than that: balls of fresh buffalo mozzarella, shaved Parmesan, gorgonzola, goat cheese terrine, spiced mixed olives, Greek olives, pepperoncini, grilled red and yellow peppers, grilled eggplant, grilled portabello mushrooms, sauteed button mushrooms, steamed asparagus, pesto-topped tomato halves, Italian cold meats, crisp bacon, cold shrimp, hearts of palm, salmon and rare ahi tuna (each with an appropriate sauce) and so much more. In addition to house-made dressings (doubtless from company recipes), a shelf above the main buffet held a fabulous assortment of olive oils and vinegars so that those of us who like to dress our own salads can do so and also baskets of fresh, nicely crusty bread. I was happy to see a bowl of chimichurri, a South American condiment that comes in many variations. The Texas de Brazil rendition isn’t very garlicky, but a tasty herb blend nonetheless.
A smaller linear buffet held soup (a slightly oversalted lobster bisque was the soup of the day), jasmine rice, Brazilian black beans and probably another side dish or two that I can’t recall. There was also a small selection of pre-made sushi — OK considering that it is served at a Brazilian-themed steakhouse but otherwise a weird combination — Japan de Brazil, perhaps? There were two desserts — a “traditional Key lime pie” whose center was so cold it seemed to have recently emerged from the freezer (I wonder when it was baked) and a far better bananas Foster pie. which the waiter described as “bananas Foster cheesecake.” Each chef selects a handful of nightly desserts from the company’s list.
The dramatic restaurant has high ceilings, huge lighting fixtures, lots of dark wood and lavish out-of-reach flower arrangements that I’m guessing are fake. A tall, glassed-in wine room displays many bottles, but because there was a special on Beringer wines as part of the Denver Restaurant Week promotion, my husband and I shared a bottle of very nice bottle Beringer Knights Valley Reserve cabernet sauvignon, a steal at the restaurant week price of $26.80. I understand that Texas de Brazil is planning to introduce private-label wines made from Portuguese grapes.
Other than my misgivings about multi-restaurant “concepts” that leave little or no room for individual chefs’ interpretations, Texas de Brazil does not lend itself to a seamless dining experience. Granted, we were there on a non-snowy Friday evening that happened to be the last night of Denver Restaurant Week, but the service component was, by its nature, intrusive. We were seated in a small, very dimly lit room fortuitously separated from the main part of the restaurant with sliding walls, enableing the six of us to hear each other), but the waiter insisted on launching his long, well-memorized recitation of how the concept works while we wine drinkers were still squinting at the wine list.
Individual second trips to the salad bar are par for the course conversation interrupters, but the person who leaves voluntarily removes him- or herself from the flow, but the steady procession of gauchos offering more of this, that or the other meat was somewhat intrusive. It can’t be helped, given the concept, but still…
Again, I acknowledge that we were there at a very busy time, but when a server offered to clear our salad plates and bring clean ones for the main course, I wasn’t quite finished with my salad but said that I would like a clean plate. He came back with one for everyone else but not for me, although I had finished my salad by the time he returned. I had to ask three different people for a clean plate before one finally materialized.
Texas de Brazil does have an a la carte menu, but we didn’t even consider it, because the two for $52.80 Denver Restaurant Week offer that lured us there in the first place. I”m not sure what the regular price is, but I think it’s about $38-$40 per person, still a good value for all that food and that fabulous salad bar.