Category Archives: Restaurants

Union Station Restaurants Announced

Artist's rendering of the renovated, repurposed Union Station. (Union Station Alliance image)

Artist’s rendering of the renovated, repurposed Union Station. (Union Station Alliance image)

As locals know, Denver’s landmark Union Station, once a busy Union Pacific Railroad depot and more recently a barely used Amtrak stop, is being renovated into part of an inter-modal transportation hub, with the neo-classical station itself slated to become a luxury hotel, shopping center and restaurant row. Happily, the Union Station Alliance, which is directing massive makeover, has so far selected local restaurateurs.

Highly regarded Denver and Boulder restaurateurs have committed to take space in the grandiose old station in LoDo: John and Adam Schlagel of Snooze, an A.M. Eatery, the wildly popular Front Range breakfast and brunch place; Hugo Matheson and Kimbal Musk of Boulder-based The Kitchen [Next Door], which at this location won’t literally be next door to any other Kitchen but a few blocks from The Kitchen [Denver] at 16th and Wazee, and a yet unnamed restaurant from Fruition’s Alex Seidel. They all promise outdoor dining.

What I view as an unfortunate casualty of this wonderful renovation is the demise of Red Star Deli and Studio F in the Ice House, directly beside the disruptive renovation project. Even with the talented James Mazzio at the helm, this daring combination of excellent deli in the front and food-oriented event space (the former Mise en Place Cooking School). Couldn’t prevail . Mazzio is now back in the Aspen area, last  I heard as executive chef at The Edge Restaurant & Bar in Snowmass.

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Old World Fare at Old-Time Prices

Simple Glenwood Springs eatery serves affordable Polish food

P1020818Polanka serves authentic, generously portioned Eastern European fare at prices so reasonable they’ll make you blink in disbelief. Located in the heart of Glenwood Springs at the turn from the short stretch between Interstate 70 access and the Grand Avenue Bridge, thousands of people pass it every day including many en route up-valley to Aspen. The lucky ones stop at the frill-free strip mall eatery, and the smart ones keep coming back for what I think is the best, inexpensive food in the Roaring Fork Valley — or at least the gateway to the valley.

Polanka is super-simple and whistle-clean. The food iks ample, inexpensive and good.

Polanka is super-simple and whistle-clean. The food is ample, inexpensive and good.

The walls are so spare that customers can’t miss the two framed 9/11 posters on a short wall beside the front door. I found them to be an unexpected theme in the middle of Colorado, so I asked. Across from the posters is the open galley kitchen where grandmother Irene and grandson Pat, whose last name(s) I don’t know, were working. Pat told me that Irene used to run a Polish restaurant, also called Polanka, in Woodbridge, New Jersey – relaitvely close to the Twin Towers. She moved to Colorado, became bored and opened another in Glenwood Springs — and like the original, everything is scratch-made on the spot. Her grandson came out to help. Continue reading

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From Barbecue to Burgers

Snarfburgers’ debut in the old Daddy Bruce’s Bar-B-Que location

P1020708What I  most liked most about Daddy Bruce’s Bar-B-Que, the funky, immutable BBQ shack at 20th and Arapahoe in Boulder, was owner  Bruce “Daddy Bruce” Randolph’s generosity. His little barbecue shack was a hangout for ths area’s small population of elderly African-Americans who passed the time of day there. Because Daddy Bruce donated Thanksgiving baskets to the less fortunate for decades, Denver named a large street in his honor

After his death, his son, Bruce Randolph, Jr., continued kept the joint open and continued the tradition of giving. Daddy Bruce, Jr. finally sold the landmark barbecue shack in 2012. Both Daddies Bruce were well on in years as they kept the place going, and by the time the Daddy Bruce era ended, the place was in sad shape. In truth, much as I admired Daddy Bruce’s humanitarian spirit. I never cared for his vinegary Carolina-style sauce or the squooshy white bread that traditionally comes with it.

Jim Seidel,  impresario of the Snarf's empire.

Jim Seidel, impresario of the Snarf’s empire.

Jim Seidel, who created the subshops, took on the daunting stem-to-stern renovation task to make way for Snarfburger, a simple and clean new burger place. The little corner eatery had always been simple, but in its waning years, “clean” was not an adjective that came to mind. At this offshoot of the popular Snarf’s Sub Shops ,the menu is small and directed at the students who comprise a large part of their base. From Snarfburgers, Naropa University is just to the east, Boulder High School to the west and the enormous University ot Colorado campus is up on the hill to the south/southwest.

Order here..Chairs are pulled up to couters under  the windows and along the walls to provide limited seating. I did hear Seidel say "picnic table," so maybe outdoor eating will be an option too.

Order here and listen for your namke to be called..Chairs are pulled up to couters under the windows and along the walls to provide limited seating. I did hear Seidel say “picnic table,” so maybe outdoor eating will be an option too.

The sub shop formula is in effect here too: order at the counter, listen for your name to be called and either eat in (space is limited) and stools are or take out. The signature items are burgers — single or double, served on big, squishy buns. These are so far, on untoasted buns. but since the sub shops toast the bread items, this could change. Customers who don’t opt out of certain condiments automaitcally get shredded lettuce. tomato, onion, pickle slices, mustard mayo — and maybe something else I’ve forgotten. The burgers are presented in a  brown paper bag. From the fryer, either potatoes or onion rings. Other items are hot dogs and grilled bologna sandwiches (aimed that the student market again). Shakes, soft ice cream and sodas from a self-serve dispenser, and that’s it. I didn’t take a picture of the brown paper bag or the burger. You can imagine what they look like.

This is the first Snarfburger, but I expect there will be more locations down the road. Colorado alone has 15 Snarf Sub Shops, and there are a few in Chicago and St. Louis too.
Snarfburger on Urbanspoon

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Asher to Cook at Botanic Gardens’ Next “Gather”

Root Down and Linger chef at the quarterly event

DenverBotanicGardens-logoWord is that Daniel Asher, whose cuisine I have yet to try at either of his Denver restaurants, Root Down and Linger, will be cooking for the Denver Botanic Gardens’ next Gather event on April 30. The fact that I’ve never eaten at either of restaurants where Asher captains the kitchen has nothing to do with desire but a lot to do with the challenge in getting reservations at a desired time. This pop-up dinner is presented by the Denver Botanic Gardens, in partnership with Catering by Design.

Asher, like the Gather chefs before him (Top Chef Hosea Rosenberg, Fruition’s Alex Seidel and Panzano’s Elise Wiggins), is developing a special menu for the event. Each Gather event is limited to 75 attendees, served at a long family-style table in Denver Botanic Garden’s Orangery, features four courses of seasonally inspired cuisine. I’m thrilled to have been invited next week, and I promise to report back. Gather is always BYOB, and I’ll have to drink judiciously since my husband, who is usually a good sport about driving home after a dinner out, declined the opportunity to attend. Call 720-865-3585 to check on last-minute ticket availablity for the event.

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Cheesy Jane’s for Fun & Food

San Antonio destination for retro atmosphere & soda shop favorites

Cheesy Jane's resturants in San Antonio and Boerne are casual, and her mobilr food truck is even more so.

Cheesy Jane’s restaurants in San Antonio and Boerne are casual, and her mobile food truck is even more so.

Built in the shell of a former service station, Cheesy Jane’s  is simple and simply fun. Cinderblock walls are painted white, teal and salmon. The theme continues with diner furnishings, a kinetic wall decoration on an automotive theme (operating part of the time) and a model train on an overhead track (unmoving during our visit) . But what people come for are good burgers, sandwiches and oh, those milkshakes.

Thick tortilla chips and spicy, flavorful salsa -- the start to every San Antonio Tex-Mex of other casual meal.

Thick tortilla chips and spicy, flavorful salsa — the start to every San Antonio Tex-Mex of other casual meal.

Thick milkshakes in a variety of flavors served in classic soda fountain shake glasses topped with whipped cream and a cherry. The metal shake container is placed alongside -- just like the old days.

Thick milkshakes in a variety of flavors served in classic soda fountain shake glasses topped with whipped cream and a cherry. The metal shake container is placed alongside — just like the old days.

Southwestern sandwich -- a huge, moist chicken breast on a tosted cheddar-jalapeno bun with green chilis (poblanos, in fact), pepper jack cheese, may with Southestern seasonings and "all the trimmings."

Southwestern sandwich — a huge, moist chicken breast on a tosted cheddar-jalapeno bun with green chilis (poblanos, in fact), pepper jack cheese, may with Southestern seasonings and “all the trimmings.”

Price check: Starters, $1.99-$4.29; burgers $5.59-$8.99 (plus single slider, $3.79);  16-oz. malts and shakes, $3.99; tater tots, fries and onion rings, $1.99-$4.99 (including double and triple portions); salads, $3.29-$7.99; Sandwiches & Stuff, $4.99-$7.29.

Cheesy Jane's on Urbanspoon

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Fajitas: How the Sizzle Was Added to the Steak

Popular Tex-Mex dish born in San Antonio

FajitasSizzling fajitas have become so “U.S.niversal” that no one thinks much about their roots — no one except the Cortez family, that is, for it is their story. I heard it from Michael Cortez, who operates his family’s restaurants in San Antonio‘s Market Square. It goes like this:

His grandfather, Pete (probably christened as Pedro in Guadalajara) was sent to San Antonio to live with family after his mother died. The family owned a butcher shop in the heart of the city (now Market Square, then a an actual market). There, young Pete, who had learned the butcher trade, took scraps of meat intended to be ground but instead seasoned them to tenderize them before cooking for the tiny, three-table cafe they added for market workers.

The inspiration was arrachera, flank steak cut and cooked in the Mexican manner of campfire cooking. Eventually Pete’s son George (perhaps originally Jorge) got the idea of searing the arrachera in cast iron skillets, so he had skillets made in Monterrey, Mexico,and so the sizzling fajita as we know it was born. The year was 1981.

Waiter with huge, steaming platters of La Margarita's fabled fajitas.

Waiter with huge, steaming platters of La Margarita’s fabled fajitas.

Mike said that fajitas first were served at Mi Tierra, still a bakery and eatery that is notable for being open 24 hours, but I had the family’s version at La Margarita, next door. It was ginormous and different from any others I’ve had. There were marrow-bearing bones in some of the meat pieces, potatoes, chunks of onion, a little bowl with big shrimp hanging over the rim and an aromatic dipping sauce, grilled oysters and more than I could try or can recall, with fresh avocado, tomato slices and lime too.

La Margarita on Urbanspoon

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Colorado Represented by 2 Beard Finalists

The finalists for the James Beard Awards, which are often described as “coveted,” include two from Colorado: Chef Jennifer Jesinski, partner in Rioja, Bistro Vendome and Euclid Hall, is a finalist for Best Chef, Southwest. And Boulder’s Frasca Food & Wine is again a finalist in the Best Wine Service category. The nominee is, in effect, partner Bobby Stuckey, a master sommelier and mastermind behind Frasca’s wine list and meticulous service. We have to wait until May to find out whether either of them brings home the top category honor.

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