Category Archives: Recipe

Winter Fruit Crisp

Problem #1: Eating a generous holiday basket of delicious fruit before it spoils.
Problem #2: Making a quick good-enough-for-company dessert.
Solution: Combining the fruit filling from an old Bon Appetit recipe for a Rustic Pear & Apple Tart (October 1992) with the Any Fruit Crisp recipe from The Fannie Farmer Cookbook. Here it is, complete with my customary tweaks. The most time-consuming part was peeling and slicing the fruit, and even that took less than 10 minutes.

Apple & Pear Crisp

1 cup flour
1 cup sugar
1 tsp. baking powder
1 egg, beaten
1/4 pound (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted

1 large Macintosh apple, peeled and sliced into 1/3-inch slices, halved
1 large Delicious apple, peeled and sliced into 1/3-inch slices, halved
1 large Bartlett pear, peeled and sliced into 1/3-inch slices, halved
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 tsp. ground mace
grated peel of one lemon
1 1/2 tbsp. unsalted butter

Whipped Cream:
1 cup chilled heavy cream
2 tbsp. confectioner’s sugar
2 tbsp. brandy, liqueur or schnapps (I used Amaretto, because the original Bon Appetit version called for slivered almonds, which I didn’t have)

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Mix flour, sugar, baking powder and egg in the food processor fitted with a steel blade until well combined but still crumbly. Place sliced fruit in a large bowl. Mix sugar, mace and grated lemon peel in a small bowl. Combine sliced fruit and sugar-lemon-mace mixture. Butter a square 8-inch pan. Pile fruit into pan and top with flour-sugar mixture, spreading to the edges of the pan. Pour melted butter to cover topping. Bake 45 minutes to one hour, until top is brown and crisp. Whip cream until medium-stiff peaks form. Beat in sugar and booze. Serve warm crisp with flavored whipped cream.

Serves 6.

Potluck Pleasures

The monthly potluck of the Boulder Media Women was yesterday evening. Thirty or 40 local writers, editors, designers and other media professionals gathered to chew the fat and chew on a lavish spread. The two hostesses, who provided beverages and a fabulous African stew (recipe, please!), had asked for guests to bring an “ethnic” dish. I originally wanted to make a Jamaican banana custard for dessert, but I didn’t have (and couldn’t get) five very ripe bananas. I decided that Italian was ethnic enough, so that’s what I made. Other BMWers were apparently of the same mind, because dishes included satisfying mix of dishes from many traditions, including quiche, cous-cous, a pasta dish or two, a couple of green salads, a silky bisque, a sweet potato dish, long Asian green beans and a fruit tart.

This fittata is equally good hot and at room temperature, and therefore is well suited to a potluck. I adapted the recipe from True Tuscan by Cesare Casella.

Ricotta Frittata

3 to 4 tbsp. olive oil, plus additional for drizzling on the frittata at the end
1 large or 1 1/2 medium onions, peeled and sliced thinly
1 to 2 tbsp. fresh herbs (marjoram, sage, thyme or other — individually or mixed), chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
6 large eggs (or 7 medium)
1 cup reduced-fat ricotta cheese
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Chopped fresh parsley

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. In an ovenproof skillet (I use cast iron) over medium heat, heat olive oil. Add onions, herbs, salt and pepper, and saute about 7 or 8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until onions are translucent and begin to brown slightly.

Meanwhile, in a bowl, combine eggs and both cheeses. Stir until smooth and homogeneous (the lowest speed on a hand mixer works well). Add egg-cheese mixture to the sauteed onions and stir to incorporate the eggs. Cook on the stovetop until the eggs begin to set. Run a knife around the edge of the frittata. Transfer skillet to the oven. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, or until firm.

Remove from oven. Run a knife around the edge of the frittata. Place a serving plate over the skillet and turn the fritrata out. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with parsley. Serve immediately or at room temperature.

Serves 4 as an entree, 6 as an appetizer or whatever number at a potluck.

I’m not the only foodie in BMW. Mary Collette Rogers, author of Take Control of Your Kitchen, is teaching a collaborative, hands-on cooking class featuring “warming winter dishes” in North Boulder this coming Sunday (November 19 from 4:00 to 6:00 p.m.). The cost is only $10, including eating the dishes prepared in class. Since time is short, it’s probably best to phone in reservations; 303-730-8960.

Celebrating First Bite Boulder

At the halfway point of First Bite Boulder, a local advertising, strategic planning and branding firm called the Sterling-Rice Group hosted a reception to celebrate the first annual city-wide restaurant week, whose name and logo it was instrumental in creating. Wine, beer, soft drinks and a quartet of hors d’oeuvres were set out in advance, but the real highlight of the evening was a demonstration by Hosea Rosenberg, executive chef of Jax Fish House. Focusing on seasonality and the impending Thanksgiving holiday, Rosenberg made half-a-dozen dishes with his own not-so-secret ingredient: sweet potatoes. These luscious autumn tubers are low in calories and pack a nutritional wallop.

Sterling-Rice’s client roster includes a number of food and beverage corporations (Nestle, Horizon Organic Dairy, Frito-Lay, Kraft, Kellogg’s Tropicana, Starbucks, Heinz, Quaker Oats, Fantastic Foods, Hellmans, Coors and Celestial Seasonings) and one of their top executives is culinary director Cathryn Olchowy (Johnson & Wales culinary grad and MBA holder), which makes it all the more remarkable that they took on a one-week, local restaurant festival.

Rosenberg made Sweet Potato Bisque (served in tall tall shot glasses), Sweet Potato Hash, Sweet Potato Corn Muffins, Sweet Potato Chipotle Gratin and Sweet Potato Souffle. The photo above shows him cutting the peeled sweet potatoes for his gratin (recipe below), which would be ideal for a Southwestern-themed Thanksgiving dinner for a crowd, but could easily be reduced for fewer people:

Sweet Potato Chipotle Gratin

1 large yellow onion
3 tbsp. butter
salt and pepper
5 pounds of sweet potatoes
1/2 can chipotles in adobo
1 pint heavy cream
1 cup Gruyere or other Swiss cheese, grated
1 cup fresh Parmesan cheese, grated

Peel and slice onion. In a saucepan over medium heat, melt butter and cook onions with a little salt and pepper until soft. Turn up heat and cook until onions begin to caramelize, being careful not to let them burn. Set aside. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Peel sweet potatoes. Using a mandolin or slicer (or sharp knife), cut potatoes into thin strips. Oil or grease the bottom of a two-inch-deep baking pan and place an even layer of potatoes on the bottom. The “pattern” resembles shingles. Sprinkle with a small amount of the cheeses, onions, salt and pepper, distributed evenly over the sweet potatoes. Repeat process, ending with a layer of potatoes. Press down with a spatula to even the layers. Pour cream over the potatoes and top with remaining cheese. Cover with foil, being careful not to permit the foil to touch the cheese. Bake for 45 minutes. Remove foil and bake for an additional 15 minutes or until the cheese is brown and bubbly. Remove from oven and pierce with a knife to make sure the potatoes are thoroughly cooked. Allow to rest before slicing; slice as you would a lasagna.

After we feasted on sweet potatoes, a group of us continued to celebrate. Sterling-Rice clients include Applebee’s and some other chain, but fortunately, we headed for Mateo, where we enjoyed the First Bite Boulder menu. See the Dining Diary on my website for a review.

An eyeball evaluation of First Bite Boulder gives it high marks. En route to Sterling-Rice’s offices and then to Mateo, I walked past a number of participating restaurants. While I didn’t see any out-the-door lines, most tables appeared occupied. And that was the whole idea.

‘The Joy of Cooking’ and the joy of cooking

The Joy of Cooking, the first cookbook for many of us and a standby for foolproof recipes of all sorts, is celebrating its 75th birthday — if a book can have a birthday, that is. I have shelves full of cookbooks and cooking magazines, and one of my pleasures is riffling through them when I need a recipe for something. I find that I go in waves when it comes to finding recipes — specific ethic cookbooks aside. At one point, the first book I pulled off the shelf was one by James Beard. At other times, compendiums of a year’s worth of Sunset recipes or one of the hefty volumes with a collection of recipes from Gourmet. Still at other times, it was something by Julia Child. When I’m in a Mediterranean mode, I rely on one of books by Franco and Margaret Romagnoli or Martha Rose Schulman. I mark up my cookbooks and my recipes, noting the date that I made the changes, any modifications that I made and whether the dish was particularly good or disappointing.

One volume that I use over and over is my own compendium of clipped recipes that I have organized, cookbook-like, by category in a large ring binder. I spent all of yesterday at REI in Denver for a snowshoeing promotion (I have written two snowshoeing books). It was after 4:30 when I got home, and I still had to whip up something a dish for a potluck that started at 6:00. I paged through my trusty noteboook and found a chicken recipe that did not call for anything I did not have in the house.

I previously made it on Aug. 31, 1989, and if I could identify the magazine I clipped it from, I’d credit it here. The recipe follows with my slight modifications. The original calls for heavy cream; I used more marjoram than called for, and I sliced the chicken differently from the original, because I didn’t want to bring anything that needed a knife to a potluck. Preparing this dish took only about half-an-hour, making it the perfect busy-day dish.

Chicken with Sun-Dried Tomatoes

1 1/2 pounds skinless, boneless chicken breasts, trimmed
3 tbsp. unsalted butter
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 large shallot, peeled and minced
1/2 cup white wine
2/3 cup half-and-half
1 tsp. dried marjoram (or fresh, if available)
1/3 cup coarsely chopped sundried tomatoes (I used jarred tomatoes, packed in oil, and drained them lightly)

Rinse chicken breasts and pat dry with paper towels. Cut chicken on the diagonal into about 1/2-inches slices. Cut longer slices in half. In a heavy skillet over moderately high heat, melt butter. When the foam subsides, add chicken pieces. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Saute over moderate heat, stirring occasionally to turn the chicken pieces until they are opaque on all sides (about 5 minutes). Remove the chicken with a slotted spoon. Add shallot and saute, stirring, about 1 minute until softened. Whisk in wine, cream and marjoram until blended and smooth. Stir in sun-dried tomatoes. Bring to boil, then reduce heat and cook, uncovered, for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Return the chicken to the pan and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, for 2 to 3 minutes. Serve.

Yield: If not making for a potluck where people tend to take a small portion of (almost) everything, I estimate that it would serve 6 as an entree, perhaps accompanied by rice or noodles.

Chilean Food, Part One

I have often said that like the army, the Society of American Travel Writers travels on its stomach. The 2006 convention is in Santiago, Chile, with a guarantee of huge meals. As with any conference, many meals are served to everyone (more than 500 of us) in a hotel function room. The Hyatt and Sheraton have made great efforts in serving some local specialties.

Among them have been various disappointing salmon preparations, outstanding fruit salads and a version of Pastel de Choclo. In Chile and elsewhere in southern South America, “choclo” (not mais or similar) is the word for corn. Pastel de Choclo, a casserole, is a summer specialty. Locals tell me that home cooks dice a couple of onions and saute them with chopped chopped garlic and salt. In another pan, they saute diced or ground beef. In yet another, they poach about four pieces of chicken in water. In an ovenproof clay pot, they combine the meat and sauteed vegetables. They top that with olives, raisins, slices of hard-boiled egg and finally the cooked chicken, which may be sliced or shredded. They shuck about 10 ears of corn and blend the kernels in a blender (with a little water “if necessary”). The corn mixture is spread on top and then sprinkled with sugar. They then bake it for about 20 minutes in at an oven setting that I could not discern, but I think must be moderate (350 to 375 degrees) until the sugar caramelizes. The hotel did it in quantity without the caramelized sugar. Other central Chilean specialties include cazuela, a soup of chicken, turkey, beef or pork with potatoes, pumpkin and green beans, also cooked in a clay pot. Empanadas filled with seasoned meat, poultry or seafood are ubiquitous, as is seaood in many forms.

More to come on restaurant meals.

Cantaloupe Salsa

Leaving on a trip soon. Cleaning out refrigerator. Grilled some chicken. Made some rice. Concocted salsa with stuff that needed to be eaten. Here’s what I made (and the recipe is easily adjustable to whatever you might need to use up):

Cantaloupe Salsa

1/2 ripe cantaloupe, seeded, removed from rind and chopped
1/3 red onion, peeled and chopped
1/3 bunch fresh cilantro, stemmed and chopped
1/4 small can of chopped mild chiles
splash of Balsamic vinegar

Combine all chopped ingredients. Add enough Balsamic vinegar to tame the onion taste. Cover and refigerate until ready to use.

Quick Lasagna

KingSoopers-logoEvery once in a while, King Soopers produces a pleasant surprise, like the Antica Pasteria fresh lasagna noodles that I found recently in the refigerator section (next to the fresh tortellini and gnocchi). I’ve become fond of no-boil lasagna noodles, so I was really delighted to find fresh rather than dried ones. With the 8.8-ounce package in my cart, I picked up some fresh mozzarella and reduced-fat ricotta. I had everything else in the house that I’d need for a quick basic lasagna.

And it was quick. It didn’t take me more than 15 minutes to assemble this dish and shove it into oven. Lasagna isn’t fussy, and as long as even a little of the sauce covers each layer of noodles, especially at the edges, it’ll come out fine. While it was resting after I took it out of the oven, I made a simple tossed salad with oil and vinegar dressing. We opened a bottle of red wine and sat down to eat 55 minutes after I started — less time than it would take to wait for a pizza delivery on a Friday evening.

Quick Cheese Lasagna

1 package Antica Pasteria lasagna noodles
1 jar good-quality tomato sauce (Whole Foods, Newman’s Own, Trader Joe’s, etc.)
1 container low-fat ricotta
1 egg, lightly beaten
Fresh herbs if available, chopped (I harvested late-season basil and parsley)
1/2 pound fresh mozzarella, sliced thin
Grated fresh Parmesan, to taste

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Mix ricotta with egg and herbs. Ladle a small amount of sauce on the bottom of an 8 x 12-inch or 9 x 13 lasagna pan. Put down a layer of noodles. With this brand, the long side noodles fit perfectly into the the short side of the pan, with a little space to spare between noodles. With kitchen shears, cut one lasagna noodle into 3 or 4 slices to fill in these gaps. Top noodles with another layer of sauce, the ricotta mixture and mozzeralla torn into small pieces. Repeat the process until you run out of something, but do finish with sauce, mozzarella if you have any left and Parmesan. Cover with foil (the no-stick kind would be good if you have some) and bake for 1/2 hour. Let rest 5 to 10 minutes before cutting.

Servings: How hungry are you? Two of us comfortably ate half of this lasagna.