Category Archives: Products

Knife Knowledge on ‘Top Chef’

Master Bladesmith Bob Kramer and his extraodinary kitchen knives

Bob Kramer Carbon Steel Knives by Zwilling J.A. Henckels, one of three Kramer signature lines that are affordable for regular folks.

Bob Kramer Carbon Steel Knives by Zwilling J.A. Henckels, one of three Kramer signature lines that are affordable for regular folks.

Until I watched Wednesday’s episode of “Top Chef” (Season 10, Episode 9), I never knew there was such a thing as a Master Bladesmith, that there are only 120 who have achieved such honors or that a certain Bob Kramer is the only one in this country to specialize in kitchen knives. He traces his craft back to royal sword-makers when the sharpness of the blade as well as the skill of its user could change history. Call it educational television.

Quality knives are amazing instruments in the right culinary hands. Kramer’s custom knives are very expensive  ($500 an inch!) and therefore are used by select very deep-pocketed chefs and extremely wealthy home cooks — the sorts of people that I imagine have a Rolls and/or a Ferrari in the garage. Kramer was the judge of this week’s “Quickfire Challenge” and evaluated the Cheftestants’ knife sharpening skills.

After three rounds, sharp-looking Micah Fields was the winner and received an exemplar from Kramer Knives. In looking for a photo of some Kramer knives, I learned that the Master Bladesmith has entered into a relationship with one of Germany’s leading knife manufacturers and offers a line marketed as Bob Kramer Knives by Zwilling J.A. Henckels. These appear to be made in Seki City, Japan, rather than in Solingen, Germany, but my own knife rack holds several Zwilling J.A. Henckels Five Star knives from Germany.

Share

Out With the Old Cuisinart & In With the New

Vintage food processor finally replaced with new version of same model

Sometime in the early ’70s, the late, great Julia Child began saying good things about the Cuisinart, a new-fangled device that made quick work of such kitchen prep chores as chopping, slicing and mixing pastry dough. I wanted one, but as a beginning cook and very junior magazine editor earning next to nothing, it seemed like an extravagance — a kitchen appliance that cost three figures and that I wasn’t sure I’d use.

So I did the penny-wise, pound-foolish thing and bought a knock-off called the American Food Processor that I think was $39.95 including eight different blades. They weren’t very good blades, but I used the machine enough to convince me that I needed a real Cuisinart. Santa obliged sometime in the mid-’70s. That faithful DLC8 has served me well ever since. Over the years, I have bought a couple of extra slicing blades and one replacement bowl, because the Plexiglas had become very scratched — probably from chopping nuts or turning dried bread into crumbs. But that was about it. Still, by now, the plastic housing has developed several cracks, and heavy insulation cord, which must have been heated somehow, is no longer reassuring.

New Pro 11 (left) and very old DLC 8 (right).

With an attractive sale at Macy’s right now and a lot of Christmas cooking coming up, I replaced Old Faithful with what I am sure will become New Faithful — moving the old DLC8 out and the very similar new Pro 11 in. It appears to have a slightly smaller bowl than its predecessor (I haven’t measured), and it has some so-called safety features that the old one didn’t have — more lock/unlock options to separate components. But I’m sure I’ll get used to them. I’ll also manage to scratch that flawless Plexiglas bowl.  I’m sure we’ll live happily together for a good long time.

Share

Horse Meat: Fit to Eat?

Delicacy in Europe threatened by US drugs

Years ago, while visiting Slovenia, I was offered horse meat as one evening’s dinner options. Like most Americans, I recoiled at the thought and politely declined. European carnivores tend to be no more squeamish about horse meat than beef, bison, lamb or pork, and in fact, many American horses have made their way to European tables. According to  a New York Times report today called “Racetrack Drugs  Put Europeans Off U.S. Horsemeat,” that noted, some 138,000 American horses were slaughtered for meat in 2o10, many of them race horses. Now, according to the Times report, American horse meat is falling out of favor due to the quantity of drugs injected into the animals, particularly race horses. The Times reported:

“For decades, American horses, many of them retired or damaged racehorses, have been shipped to Canada and Mexico, where it is legal to slaughter horses, and then processed and sold for consumption in Europe and beyond.

“Lately, however, European food safety officials have notified Mexican and Canadian slaughterhouses of a growing concern: The meat of American racehorses may be too toxic to eat safely because the horses have been injected repeatedly with drugs.

“Despite the fact that racehorses make up only a fraction of the trade in horse meat, the European officials have indicated that they may nonetheless require lifetime medication records for slaughter-bound horses from Canada and Mexico, and perhaps require them to be held on feedlots or some other holding area for six months before they are slaughtered.”

Fueled by the dollars and lobbying efforts of the agro-chemical industry, bans against genetically modified food have been stymied in the US, and at the same time, there are no prohibitions against shipping drugged-up animals to other countries for slaughter and further export. Many racehorses, the Times continues, are injected with painkillers so that they can keep racing despite injuries and pain. Some horse break down, and become the “damaged” animals whose meat sent overseas for consumption.

If food safety and the ethics of the American big-time food industry concern you, read the Times report, which might make your hair curl and stomach churn. It did mine, anyway.

Horse Meat in the US? Whoa, Not So Fast

Meanwhile, according to a report in the Huffington Post last year,

“Horses could soon be butchered in the U.S. for human consumption after Congress quietly lifted a 5-year-old ban on funding horse meat inspections, and activists say slaughterhouses could be up and running in as little as a month.

“Slaughter opponents pushed a measure cutting off funding for horse meat inspections through Congress in 2006 after other efforts to pass outright bans on horse slaughter failed in previous years. Congress lifted the ban in a spending bill President Barack Obama signed into law Nov. 18 [2011] to keep the government afloat until mid-December.

“It did not, however, allocate any new money to pay for horse meat inspections, which opponents claim could cost taxpayers $3 million to $5 million a year. The U.S. Department of Agriculture would have to find the money in its existing budget, which is expected to see more cuts this year as Congress and the White House aim to trim federal spending.

The USDA issued a statement Tuesday saying there are no slaughterhouses in the U.S. that butcher horses for human consumption now, but if one were to open, it would conduct inspections to make sure federal laws were being followed. USDA spokesman Neil Gaffney declined to answer questions beyond what was in the statement….The last U.S. slaughterhouse that butchered horses closed in 2007 in Illinois, and animal welfare activists warned of massive public outcry in any town where a slaughterhouse may open.”

National Public Radio weighed in with a commentary, “Plan to Slaughter Horses for Human Consumption is Met with Distaste.” Legal or not, horse meat hasn’t exactly become an American food fad — and if it ever does, it’s not a fad I plan to follow.

Share

Spanish Olive Oil in Denver

Three Denver restaurants feature olive oil from Spain

One of my favorite food reads is Olives: The Life and Lore of a Noble Fruit, a James Beard Award-winning book by Mort Rosenblum. He compares and contrasts olive oil growing, harvesting and pressing in nearly every country around the Mediterranean. Of course, he researched and wrote it in the early to mid-’90s, when wars, insurrections and unspeakable violence was not yet a face of life in too much of the Middle East and North Africa.

He pointed out then, and it is still true, that Italy clinched a marketing advantage when it comes to olive oil. Many labels read, “Bottled in Italy.” And in truth olive oil producers have often shipped their product to Italy to be bottled. No more. Other countries are not only bottling their own oils but proudly labeling and promoting them.

Olive Oil from Spain is a promotional effort to enlighten foodies about the country’s history of olives and olive oils, methods of production, olive varieties and growing regions. Currently, three Spanish and Mediterranean restaurants in Denver are participating in the first Olive Oil from Spain Restaurant Week through November 18 with special dishes created for the occasion. They are:

Rioja (1431 Larimer Street, 303-820-2282). Spanish Octopus Farfall: Squid ink-piquillo pepper pasta, Basque chilies, piquillo peppers, crisp preserved lemons, gremolata, caper chile emulsion and Arbequina olive oil.

Rioja’s Spanish Octopus Farfall.

Olivéa (719 East. 17th Avenue, 303-861-5050). Three seasonal menu items are being enhanced with the Arbequina varietal: Baby spicy greens with pancetta vinaigrette, blue cheese, hazelnuts and Arbequina olive oil; Prosciutto, almonds and pecorino with toasts finished with Arbequina olive oil, and baked bacalao, parsley and Kalamata olive salad with toasts finished with Arbequina olive oil.

Ondo’s Spanish Tapas Bar (250 Steele St. #100, Cherry Creek North, 303-975-6514. Wild salmon carpaccio, chervil, Meyer limons, and Hojiblanca olive oil; shrimp and scallop confit with cream of leeks and Arbequina olive oil, and 64% cocoa mousse with date crisps and Picual olive oil.

Share

Mail-Order Mochi

Original US maker of tasty Japanese dessert now impoving online ordering

Whenever I have room for dessert after a sushi feast, I ask for mochi, if it is on the menu, and when I shop at Pacific Ocean, an Asian supermarket in Broomfield or Denver’s Alameda Square, I buy a box or two if I can get it home before it melts. Truth is that I am very fond of Mochi Ice Cream, as it is branded. This small, round dessert ball consisting of a soft rice starch (mochi) encasing an ice cream core and dusted with cornstarch was created in Japan in 1981, and a version was introduced in the US in 1993 by a company called Mikawaya that has been marketing it as “Mochi Ice Cream.” It is cool, slightly chewy on the outside and totally addictive.

Delicious as it is, the product is not available in most mainstream supermarkets — except perhaps in Calfifornia. To fill the national void, Mikawaya has beefed up its online store to bring all seven Mochi Ice Cream flavors to anyone with access to a computer. It is delivered by the 5-box case overnight, packed in a dry ice case, for $30 a box plus shipping and taxes. Mikawaya, a 100-year-old family business run by Frances Hashimoto and her husband Joel Friedman, that specializes in the creation of specialty Japanese pastries and desserts. With its beefed-up online presence, Mikawaya the mochi alternative to traditional ice cream. Click here and enter your zip code to find out if there’s a retail grocer nearby that carries it, or click here to order online.

Share

Ricky’s Lucky Nuts: Peanuts from Heaven

Its easy to go nuts over these delicious dry-roasted peanuts

In 1981, the Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory started in a storefront in downtown Durango, Colorado, not far from the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad depot. Look at it now: a public corporation, well over 300 franchise stores and confections with scores of flavors. Ricky’s Lucky Nuts, established in 2006 on the other end of downtown, started a quarter of a century later and is already appearing on some of Colorado’s store shelves.

Paul Gelose, a gifted chef with wide-ranging experience, over the years held various positions in the kitchens of the Stein Eriksen Lodge, Deer Valley, Utah; Hotel Adula, Flims, Switzerland; Kulm Hotel, St. Moritz, Switzerland; Sheraton Steamboat, Colorado. He slid over to Telluride where he ran the Powderhouse, Joe’s Catering and Giuseppi’s at the Plunge, and also worked in Chicago as Oprah Winfrey’s personal chef in 1996-97. He moved to Durango to purchase the Palace Restaurant, also on Main Street between the Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory #1 and Ricky’s Lucky Nuts offices. Durango’s Main Street is, in fact, a food row of sorts.

Gelose named the nuts after Rick Jensen, a fellow chef whom he worked with at Steamboat. Paul tried some of Rick’s dry-roasted, seasoned peanuts, which he really liked. On the hand-written recipe from his friend, Paul scribbled, “Ricky’s Lucky Nuts.” The the name stuck. Rick is now a chef in Hawaii at aTurtle Bay Resort restaurant, and Paul and his wife Carolyn Lamb are running the nut company and the restaurant in Colorado.

Ricky’s Lucky Nuts are all natural, dry-roasted, sweet, spicy and totally addictive. The original flavor, officially called Original Style, is lightly salted, lightly sweetened and lightly spiced. Everything is subtle and balanced. There’s a hot undertone (maybe wasabi, maybe pepper, maybe something else) and a spice combo that I can’t identify.The Bombay Curry Coconut is more curry than coconut, which is just fine with me. I’m trying to pace myself, so I haven’t yet opened the Spicy Chile Chipotle or the Black Pepper and Salt.

Ricky’s Lucky Nuts come in 2-ounce and 6-ounce packages, and are available at Whole Foods, Tony’s Markets, Pharmaca Integrative Pharmacies, independent grocers, specialty shops and even hotels. 1099 Main Avenue, Suite 105, Durango, Colorado 81301; 970-382-2264 or 888-RLN-NUTS (756-6887).

Share

Impressive Colorado Pestos Top Terrific Pizzas

Ciolo and now Piccolo pestos pass the pizza taste test at Laudisio‘s

Antonio Laudisio makes his own pesto in big batches for use on pizzas and pasta in his Boulder restaurant. He has been doing so for nearly four decades — first at his mother’s restaurant in Florida and since 1988 in his namesake establishment in Colorado. In fact, Antonio makes them in a mortar and pestle made of South Dakota granite that came from the grandson of Gutzon Borglum, who carved the Presidential monuments at Mt. Rushmore from, of course, South Dakota granite — a culinary footnote to American history.

When Tellory, Inc., a Lafayette company, wanted to do a pizza sampling using their artisinal Ciolo and Piccolo brands of handcrafted pesto, the company approached Antonio Laudisio to turn the recipes into reality. Antonio and Adalberto Murillo (below) assembled pizzas using Tellory’s two lines of pesto products, plus quality ingredients and their own scrumptious pizza dough, popped the pies into the oven and sliced them for the mid-day pizza party. What a launch!

Among the the combinations (images below) that they assembled were: caramelized onion, feta, green olive and feta pesto, and slices of fresh tomato; jalapeño pecan pesto ad prosciutto; tomato, basil pesto and pancetta; fontina cheese, bacon and roasted red pepper pesto; roasted red pepper, mozzarella and pancetta. Pizza lovers, eat your hearts out, because these were excellent.


Piccolo (below) is Tellory’s new line of all-natural pestos, spreads and tapanades that are sold in King Soopers in Colorado; Fairway, Zabar’s, Westside Market, Amish Market and Zaytuna Market, all in New York, Kings Super Markets in New Jersey, and Eldorado Supermarket in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Ciolo is the company’s earlier brand that is sold exclusively at Whole Foods. Products have a shelf life of 30 to 60 days and retail for $5.49 to $6.99.

Laudisio’s indvidual pizzas from the wood-burning oven are $4.75 at happy hour and $9.50-$11 at lunch and dinner. The restaurant is at 1720 29th Street, Boulder; 303-442-1300.

Share