Category Archives: New York

Honors for Emily’s Brooklyn Pizza

My cross-country, cross-generational connection with Brooklyn pizzeria.

DailyMeal-logoAs you might have noticed, I often post news of national honors or national recognition awarded to Colorado restaurants, chefs and wines. Brooklyn is not normally on my radar screen, but I was thrilled to see that Pizza Loves Emily, a Brooklyn pizzeria now with two locations, was cited as one of “The 25 Best Cheese Pizzas in America,” as selected by TheDailyMeal.com.

The namesake is Emily Hyland, who owns it with her husband Matt. I knew her as a pre-schooler named Emily Shaw. She was a Stevens Cooperative Nursery School classmate of my son, Andrew, in Hoboken, NJ. Emily’s parents Rex and Rona Shaw and I have stayed in holiday letter touch throughout the years, and we reconnected in person recently when they came to a wedding in Estes Park. They both told me that when we next are in New York, we have to go to Pizza Loves Emily. And we will.

I don’t know what has changed but I cannot seem to copy The Daily Meal’s post about Emily, so you’ll have to click on this link in order to read it.

Pizza Loves Emily Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Denver Chef to Cook at Beard Pork-A-Palooza

Justin Brunson among 10 selected chefs.

JamesBeardFoundation-logoAs it says on that chef’s apron that is a  popular gift for hefty home cooks, “Never trust a skinny chef.”  Bu that measure,  chef-owner Justin Brunson of Denver’s Old Major, Masterpiece Kitchen and Masterpiece Delicatessen is one of the most trustworthy chefs around.

Chef Justin Brunson.
Chef Justin Brunson.

His skill and rep for his way with meats, not his BMI, earned him an invitation to at the James Beard Foundation’s Pork-A-Palooza on October 4 at the James Beard House. The kitchen cadre:

  • Stephen Gerike, The National Pork Board. Des Moines, IA
  • Jason Alley. Comfort and Pasture, Richmond, VA.
  • Justin Brunson. Old Major, Masterpiece Deli and Masterpiece Kitchen, Denver.
  • Brad Farmerie. Public, New York, and Saxon + Parole, New York.
  • Jose Garces*. Garces Group, Chicago; Moorestown, NJ; Palm Springs, CA; Philadelphia; Scottsdale, AZ, and Washington, D.C.
  • Paul Kahan.* One Off Hospitality Group, Chicago.
  • Adam Sappington. The Country Cat Dinner House and Bar, Portland, OR.
  • Chris Shepherd*. Underbelly, Houston.
  • Celeste Campise. Who’s Hungry?, Magazine and Room 1520, Chicago.
  • Jared Rouben. Moody Tongue Brewing Company, Chicago.

    *James Beard Foundation Award winners.

The cost of the dinner is $160 for Beard members and $210 for the general public.

 

Denver Five to Cook at NYC’s James Beard House

Left to right: John DePierro, Kevin Morrison, Dana Rodriguez, Wine Director Ryan Fletter, Pastry Chef Alicia Luther, Darrel Truett,and Mixologist Gerard Collier
Left to right: John DePierro, MiJo; Kevin Morrison, KTM Restaurant Group; Dana Rodriguez, Work & Class; Wine Director Ryan Fletter, Barolo Grill;  Pastry Chef Alicia Luther, Black Eye Coffee;  Darrel Truett, Barolo Grill, and Tacos, Tequila and Whiskey  mixologist Gerard Collier.

This elite team of Colorado culinary compatriots has made an indelible mark on the Colorado dining scene with their bold, inventive fare. The group (five chefs, two “beveragists”) celebrates the collective’s ninth Beard House anniversary with an eclectic menu that highlights the evolving traditions of the Mile High City. If your pockets are deep your your appetite robust (and you are or will be in New York), the dinner costs $175 for the general public and $135 for Beard members.

The James Beard House is at 167 West 12th Street, New York; 212-627-2308. Go to the next page for the menu

Continue reading Denver Five to Cook at NYC’s James Beard House

‘Meeting’ Mimi Sheraton

Legendary restaurant critic and her book 1,000 Foods to Eat Before You Die

100FoodsBefreYouDie-coverSome long-ago, long-running bylines from The New York Times stick in my mind: John Noble Wilford on science, Ada Louise Huxtable on architecture and Mimi Sheraton on food.  A Facebook post by my friend Grace Lichtenstein, herself a Times alumna, caught my eye because it featured one of these illustrious names: “Mimi Sheraton’s 1,000 Favorite Foods.”

I hadn’t thought about Mimi Sheraton in a very long time, and as so often happens in such cases, my reaction was: “I didn’t know that she was still alive.” Well she is (she’s 90) , she has a recent book out and was the subject of a terrific profile that Grace about her for New York City Woman.

Sheraton’s book is called 1,000 Foods to Eat Before You Die: A Food Lover’s Life List. She doesn’t believe that everyone must lie everything, but she advocates trying — and so do I, usually.

Ski Tip Praised but Placed in Nowheresville

The Daily Meal just doesn’t get the middle of the country.

DailyMeal-logoOnce again, a New York-based dining authority may know lots about food but seems to know little about Colorado. It includes Keystone’s Ski Tip Lodge in a list of worthy if remote eateries. Worthy it is. But remote? Not really.

This historic building is now part of the vast Keystone Resort that includes six lodging pods that stretch for miles along US 6. Except arguably in mud season, the resort throbs with activities and can be crowded visitors. It is an hour give or take from Denver, the largest city in a 600-mile radius. Interstate 70, a prime east-west route across the country, is just 6 miles away — and those 6 miles are hardly through wilderness but increasingly developed.

Still The Daily Meal included Ski Tip in its restaurant roundup called “Get Lost: 20 Must-Visit U.S. Restaurants in the Middle of Nowhere,” writing:

When the snow isn’t falling and the tourists aren’t touring, Keystone, about 70 miles west of Denver, is a town of only 1,000 residents. However, the local Ski Tip Lodge —within an 1800’s stagecoach stop that was once the home of Keystone’s founding family — has a restaurant that makes a trip here worth the trouble. Executive chef Kevin McComb offers a four-course meal daily that constantly changes, with dishes like porcini mushroom and potato purée with truffle whipped cream, hoisin cured crispy pork belly, braised and glazed al natural beef short rib, and bourbon marinated Colorado lamb chop. The romantic dining experience is enjoyable and slow-paced, which is possible because the restaurant only offers two seating times per night.

The photo caption perfectly summarizes the site’s ignorance. It reads, “This Ski Tip Lodge meal can be yours! All you need to do is travel into the middle of a forest in the Rocky Mountains.” Not exactly.

NY Times Reviewer Slams Per Se

Boulder’s Frasca an heir to what Thomas Keller’s restaurants once were.

NYTimes-logoLike many foodies — even a low-key one like me whose only snobbism is that I won’t go to big national chain restaurants — I always had a secret wish to dine at Thomas Keller’s French Laundry in Yountville, CA, or Per Se, his over-the-top restaurant in New York,

Pete Wells, the New York Times dining critic, has experienced the cuisine and service at Per Se on an expense account, of course, and still he found the restaurant lacking and demoted it from four to two stars.  His review is scathing and the comments enlightening because they reflect the thoughts both of people who have dined there and those who are appalled by the price and would never spend that much.

This review is obliquely germane to Colorado. Celeb chef Thomas Keller has often appeared at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, about which he says, “The Classic is in a class by itself. You can’t compare it to other culinary events. This is it. This is the superstar. This is the place to come.”

But beyond that, Frasca Food & Wine, the highly honored Friulian  restaurant that more than any other has put Boulder American culinary map has its roots in Keller’s world. Frasca is owned by chef Lachlan McKinnon-Patterson and Master Sommelier Bobby Stuckey, who met while working at the French Laundry in its heyday as the country’s best, and then came to Colorado to open their own fine dining restaurant.

We go there now and again for special occasions.  The food has always been exceptional, and the service flawless — at least when Bobby Stuckey is in command of the dining room. We went there once for my birthday when he wasn’t in the room,  and I felt a bit of the surprise that Peter Wells did at Per Se.

Most of the tables at Frasca are set with elegant crisp white linens. The two flanking the kitchen door were bare, and instead of comfortable chairs, seating was on a curved banquette. We were seated at one and at the other was a VERY LOUD party of five. The man at the end of the banquette was dressed in a T-shirt and shorts. One of his butt cheeks hung over the end of the bench, so he stuck out his hairy leg to keep from sliding off. They spoke at a volume usually reserved for sports bars. Other than placing us or them in such proximity, none of this is Frasca’s fault — but it did nothing to enhance the enjoyment of the evening.

What did surprise me was that we did not receive the customary Tajut, a small glass of apéritif wine. Had the restaurant stopped presenting this to every diner? I don’t know, and I was too distracted by the obnoxious group to our left to ask. We’ll be back for another birthday or anniversary or other occasion, and when reserving, I’ll make sure to ask whether Bobby Stuckey is on the floor that evening.

Boulder Chef to Cook at James Beard House

Blackbelly’s Hosea Rosenberg at New York institution this week.

BeardHouse-signHosea Rosenberg, the owner/chef of Boulder’s Blackbelly Market & Catering, is cooking at New York’s legendary James Beard House this Thursday, September 24. His middle name might as well be “Winner of Top Chef Season 5,” because is always described that way.

The all-inclusive tab is $130 for Beard House members and $170 for everyone else. We were in New York last week, and if Hosea had been cooking there then, I might have been tempted to dip into the piggy-bank — deep into the piggy-bank — to attend. But he’ll be back in Boulder after what I am sure will be a triumphant evening, and we’ll go back to Blackbelly to congratulate him. Here’s the menu:

Hors d’Oeuvre 

Assorted Blackbelly Housemade Charcuterie
Chilled Corn Soup with Huitlacoche
Peach–Lardo Toasts
Fruition Farms Ricotta Tartines
THE GREEN SCOTSMAN > EDINBURGH GIN WITH YELLOW CHARTREUSE, LEMON, AND PROSECCO

Dinner 

Dogwood Farms Lamb Carpaccio with Tasmanian Pepperberry, Verde Capra Blue Cheese, and Baby Fennel
PASCAL JOLIVET SANCERRE BLANC 2013

Skuna Bay Salmon with Summer Pistou and Nasturtium
J. J. VINCENT MARIE ANTOINETTE POUILLY FUISSÉ 2013

Foie Gras–Sweetbread Sausage with Pickled Ratatouille and Herb Salad
NINO NEGRI INFERNO VALTELLINA SUPERIORE 2010

100-Day Dry-Aged Beef Strip Loin with Chanterelles and Alliums
MARCHESI DI BAROLO BAROLO 2010

Apple–Green Chile Doughnuts with Bacon Jam
PAUL JABOULET AÎNÉ LE CHANT DES GRIOLLES MUSCAT DE BEAUMES DE VENISE 2012

P.S. In a Facebook thread about this post, Denver publicity guru Wendy Aiello noted that she had arranged for Hosea’s first Beard House appearance, and he added that this is actually going to be his fourth time there — but the first time “as the headliner.”