Category Archives: Media

2 Local Chefs on Upcoming ‘Top Chef Masters’

Jennifer Jasinski & Richard Sandoval among the 2013 “Top Cheftestants”

TopChefMasters-logoI know I’ll be watching the fifth season of Bravo’s “Top Chef Masters” beginning on July 24, because two of the 13 new award-winning contenders have Colorado connections. Jennifer Jasinski is the chef/partner in three acclaimed Denver restaurants (Rioja, Euclid Hall and Bistro Vendôme) and Richard Sandoval (Richard Sandoval Restaurants with seven restaurants of different names in the Denver area, the mountains and overseas). They are competing for the title of ‘Top Chef Master’ and $100,000 for a charity of their choice. Jennifer’s is Work Options for Women and Richard’s is Careers Through Culinary Arts. It seems that both Colorado-connected chefs are eager to help train people for the business.

Another new wrinkle is that each Master has his or her sous-chef competing in a separate online competition, “Battle of the Sous Chefs.”  Jenn’s sous is Jorel Pierce of Euclid Hall, who competed but didn’t get too far on last season’s “Top Chef.” Richard’s is Greg Howe, but I’m not sure where he cooks. The results of each online episode directly impacts the Masters, awarding such advantages as immunity (the winner of each battle earns immunity for his or her boss) and sometimes, disadvantages, depending on their sous-chef’s performance (the poorest-performing sous-chefs who perform “earn” obstacles for their Top Chef Masters). Each “Battle of the Sous Chefs” episode precedes the next episode of “Top Chef Masters” and explores the uniquely interdependent relationship between a Master chef and his or her sous. To get an idea of this The series is already in the can, the they know who won what, but it’s a secret to the rest of the world. Continue reading

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Zagat Picks Bull Balls as Colorado’s Signature Dish

Rocky Mountain Oyters featured yet again. Yawn…

Rocky Mountain Oysters from Denver's Buckhorn Exchange. (Zagat photo)

Rocky Mountain Oysters from Denver’s Buckhorn Exchange. (Zagat photo)

When Colorado is included in a food list, rather than ignored altogether, it seems as Rocky Mountain oysters (fried bull testicles for the few who don’t know) are discovered again and again and tediously again. In “The 50 Plates of America: A Culinary Journey Across the U.S.,” Zagat was just the latest to “discover” this specialty. Here’s what the Zagateers wrote:

While a rack of lamb may bear the state’s name throughout the glorious chain steakhouses that grace American highways, Rocky Mountain Oysters represent the state’s rugged reputation. The… ahem… delicate parts of a bull’s underbelly are (usually) deep-fried and go best with a side of rémoulade. Buckhorn Exchange, which dates back to 1893 and is an homage to Colorado’s frontier roots, might be the best place for newbies to test their adventurousness. Or if you’re looking for a little buzz while you partake, Denver’s Wynkoop Brewery even offers a Rocky Mountain Oyster Stout.

In truth, fried Rocky Mountain Oysters taste like a lot of other fried things, with the batter and he dipping sauce providing most of the flavor.There is nothing really “culinary” about their list — hot dogs were selected from Connecticut, my native state, and Iowa must live with the burden of deep-fried burgers.

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F&W’s People’s Choice Ballots Now Online

PeoplesBestNewChef-logoFood & Wine magazine announces its annual selections for the 10 Best New Chefs in the country during the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. The winners appear on the cover of the magazine’s June issue, prepare dishes for a special reception during the Classic and have a chance to hobnob with storied chefs and others in the food and wine business.

There’s now also a People’s Choice award, with online balloting to select, well, the people’s choice among 10 chefs from10 regions. Along with Arizona and Texas, Colorado is considered to be in the Southwest region. The token Colorado chef is Max McKissock of The Squeaky Bean in Denver.. Eight Texans (mostly from Houston and Dallas, plus one from Austin. Click here for the online ballot and vote for Max if you want a Coloradan to win.

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’5280′ Magazine’s Best Denver Restaurants

Annual list cites Denver area’s top newcomers

5280-cover-2013The March issue of 5280 magazine arrived yesterday, with it the cover story of the publication’s selection of the year’s best new restaurants. Seven are in Denver — all in trendy emerging neighborhoods (no Cherry Creek North or downtown eateries here) – and one is in Boulder. Two are not totally new but rather reincarnations. The Squeaky Bean, once in a cramped location with a teeny make-believe kitchen, is now in larger quarters, while Boulder’s Oak at Fourteenth expanded slightly and reopened in the original location after a devastating fire. The Universal is a breakfast and lunch place.

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‘Top Chef’: I Can’t Believe I Watched the Whole Thing

After oh-so-dramatic ups and downs, Kristin Kish anointed Top Chef

TopChef-Season10-logoI really don’t care for the unreal (or surreal?) realm of reality telvision, but I tend to make an exception when a Colorado chef is a cooking show contestant. Then, my “state-riotism” kicks in and I start watching. With three Colorado chefs on season 10 of “Top Chef,” I became regular viewer. The locals were eliminated one by one, but I kept watching the program — but not the ”Last Chance Kitchen” online spinoff.

By the beginning of the final episode telecast yesterday, the initial field of 21 “cheftestants” had been whittled down to two — and by the end of the program, just one remained to be crowned Top Chef. In the meantime, I had watched interesting moments of cooking and plating, plus soap opera-style interviews with the contenders (fierce and determined, or disappointed and resigned — much like the “Kiss and Cry” bench in every figure skating competition), processions of plated dishes being brought out to judges and audiences as small as those who could fit around the dining table in the Alaska governor’s mansion (Episode 15, I think) or as large as the studio audience in the finale, Episode 17.

Thinking back, I feel that the judges make their decisions using flexible and arbitrary parameters. Sometimes cheftestants are praised for being creative and thinking/cooking outside the box and sometimes they are eliminated for having strayed from what they know and do well — and what the judges suddenly say they “expected.” This was particularly evident in Finale Part I (Episode 16), in which Sheldon Simeon, a kid from Hilo who worked his way up, way up from dishwasher to one of Hawaii’s leading kitchenmeisters, was eliminated for going beyond his expected style of cooking. Only Emeril Lagasse, a kid from Fall River, Massachusetts, who himself started working in a Portuguese bakery as a teenager, identified with and praised Sheldon’s remarkable climb.

Kristen Kish, the eventual Top Chef , loaded down with ingredients during one of the elimination challenges.

Kristen Kish, the eventual Top Chef , loaded down with ingredients during one of the elimination challenges.

The finale pitted two talented women, Kristen Kish and Brooke Williamson. Kristin went on to win the title of “Top Chef.” She had been eliminated earlier triumped over other cheftestants people in the “Last Chance Kitchen” series and faced Brooke in the finale, an episode playing off the Iron Chefformat that involved cooking in front of the show’s judges, past winners (includinr Boulder’s Hosea Rosenberg, Season 5 winner) and others. Co-host Tom Colicchio  was underwhelmed with this gimmick, tweeting: “I hear you out there you didn’t like the format well neither did I and I doubt we will do that again.”

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Two French Chefs Next at Aspen’s Chefs Club

French culinary team at the St. Regis Aspen for three nights

The Chefs Club by Food & Wine is set to bring another top resatuant team to Aspen. The $150 (wine pairings additional) dinner on March 6, 7 and 9 does push most people’s restaurant budgets, but  it’s a lot mor afforedable and closer than a culinary trip to Paris. Cyril Lignac, one of the great modern day chefs of France, plus his pastry chef and culinary team prepares a four-course menu for three those nights only.

CyrilLignacLignac is chef/owner of three popular restaurants in Paris, Quinzième, Le Chardenoux and Le Chardenoux des Prés, and two patisseries. In 2012, Chef Lignac received his first Michelin star for his restaurant Le Quinzième. At the same time, GQ magazine recognized his entrepreneurial spirit and his talent for sharing simple pleasures when they named him “Chef of the Year”. This spring, Lignac will release his first cookbook in English. Perhaps advance copies will already be available — or perhaps not.

MathieuPacaudLater in the month, on the 14th and 16th, Mathieu Pacaud, chef/co-owner the Michelin three star restaurant L‘Ambroisie in Paris, He partners with his father Bernard, to run this Parisian mainstay of French haute cuisine, L’Ambroisie that  L’Ambroisie has retained three Michelin stars for more than 20 years. The restaurant.lies in the heart of the historic Marais at 9 Place des Vosges. The cuisine of Bernard and Mathieu Pacaud is classical, sophisticated and seasonal.

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Andrew Zimmern & Denver’s Weird Foods

Denver area “bizarre” foods” airing February 18

Andrew Zimmern eating I-don't-know-what, I-don't-know-where.

Andrew Zimmern eating I-don’t-know-what, I-don’t-know-where.

I watched the episodes of Andrew Zimmern’s “Bizarre Foods” for which my friend Josh Berman – author, writer, Peace Corps alum and authority on Central America — was the “fixer” for the cast and crew. I can’t pretend that I enjoyed the food part of the program, because I long ago outgrew my willingness to try anything.

However, I’ll tune in to The Travel Channel on Monday at 7:00 p.m. for the Denver episode to find out just what local bizarre-ities Zimmern ate in the Mile High City. He reportedly joined a local Meet-Up called the Adventurous Eater Club eating adventurously at Parallel 17El Taco de Mexico and Euclid Hall and perhaps other stops for Rocky Mountain Oysters. I’ll tune in at home, but know Euclid Hall is tuning all of its TVs to The Travel Channel for a watch party.

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