Category Archives: Locavore and farm-to-table

Taste Buds Bloom at Botanic Gardens

P1020620Locals and lucky visitors know the Denver Botanic Gardens for their year-round horticultural displays outdoors and in the soaring conservatory, gardening classes, concerts, plant sales and Blossoms of Light every December. But the monthly cooking classes for adults (except in summer) and weekly classes for children (Fridays during the summer) are less well known.

Even less known than these culinary classes are the Gather dinners, pop-up feasts offered roughly quarterly with guests chefs from leading local restaurants presenting creative dinners for a maximum of 75 guests. Previous chefs were Alex Seidel of Fruition, Elise Wiggins of Panzano and Hosea Rosenberg, Blackbelly Catering and “Top Chef” Season 5 winner.

Yesterday evening was my first opportunity to experience a Gather dinner — and what an experience it was. Two long tables were set up in the narrow Orangerie with a garden view and indoor fruit trees in one direction and a view of the opulent conservatory plants in the other.

Chef Daniel Asher desscribing both his culinary philosophy and the next dish to Gather diners.

Chef Daniel Asher describing both his culinary philosophy and the next dish to Gather diners. Photo courtesy Denver Botanic Gardens.

Last evening’s guest chef was Daniel Asher from Root Down and Linger, two restaurants that have been on my Denver Dining bucket list since they opened. Asher created what he called a plant-centric four-course menu, more nuanced and elaborate that he could do in a restaurant dinner menu.

But I’m getting ahead of myself. The evening began with gorgeous ruby red cocktails mixed by Mike Henderson, who according to his two-sided business card is both Root Down’s “cocktail service tech” (which is yet another extension of “mixologist” and “bartender” before that) and also Linger’s “spiritual advisor” (which seems just plain whimsical).

Mike Henserson, mixing two drinks at a time.

Mike Henderson, mixing two drinks at a time.

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Then it was time to dine. Chef Asher is a gifted culinarian and committed advocate of fresh and local products. He not only conceived of a brilliant menu full of veggie wonderfulness, but presented each dish artistically — and named each one cleverly. My friend friend and fellow foodie, Toni Dash, who has serious gluten issues, was able to clean the plate at each course, and even though the macadamia-sesame crust on the dessert was reportedly gluten-free, she avoided it — in case. Continue reading

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Locavore Index Ranks States

Mirror, mirror on the wall; who’s the localest of us all?

Heifers-logoStrolling of the Heifers, a Vermont-based local food advocacy group, has released its second annual locavore index that ranks the 50 states and the District of Columbia in terms of their commitment to local foods sourced from family farms. The top three are Vermont, Maine and New Hampshire — not surprising because the mystique of the family farm, complete with white frame farmhouse, commodious barn and perhaps a farmstand out front still loom large in the New England consciousness. It’s not all nostalgia, however. Vermont’s top ranking in the Index reflects “both its agricultural heritage and the state’s economic strategies that place a high priority on initiatives related to food and agriculture.” North Dakota (surprisingly) and Iowa (not surprisingly) round out the top five.

Strolling of the Heifers explains that it “uses recent indicator data from multiple sources, [and that] the Index incorporates farmers’ markets, consumer-supported agriculture operations (CSAs) and food hubs in its per-capita comparison of consumers’ interest in eating locally sourced foods” (aka, locavorism). It does not include backyard gardens or fishing in local waters (unless, perhaps, seafood is part of a CSA or farmers’ market mix.

Colorado is19th on the current list, a giant leap from its number 31 ranking in 2012. In the top tier, I was surprised that North Dakota rose from number 7 to number and also that Iowa dropped from number 2 to number 5. Which states occupy the bottom of the list? Nevada, Arizona, Louisiana,  Florida and Texas  There’s been quite a bit of adjustment, which might be a function ot so new a ranking. The full list also includes additional stats.

In case you’re wondering where the ogranization’s quirky name comes from, their site sort of clarifies:
“Strolling of the Heifers has celebrated farmers and advocated for local foods since 2002 with its annual agriculturally-themed Strolling of the Heifers Parade in Brattleboro, Vermont, held June 8 this year, in which heifer calves and other farm animals, bedecked with flowers, are led up Brattleboro’s historic Main Street. When it’s over, the crowd follows the parade to the Stroll’s all-day Live Green Expo for food, entertainment, education and fun.” Flower-bedecked bovines remind me of Switzerland, where cows are led through village streets en route to and from high-mountain summer pastures.But that still leaves the question:  I don’t know which came first, Brattleboro’s parade or the organization.

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Chautauqua Dining Hall Reopens Today

Landmark Boulder restaurant redone, renovated and renewed

Chautauqua Dining Hall on a summer evening. The exterior, including the splendid porch, remains as it was.

Chautauqua Dining Hall on a summer evening. The exterior, including the splendid porch, remains as it was.

Boulder’s historic Chautauqua Dining Hall has been closed for six months for a much-needed makeover — in fact, a stem-to-stern upgrade to bring this late 19th century restaurant up to 21st standards in terms of decor, environmentally intelligent facility upgrades and best eco-practices, plus refined cuisine with eye toward local sourcing including produce from their own Three Leaf Farm and Colorado beers on tap. I haven’t seen the new menu, so I don’t know whether local wines are also featured. There is no way to improve on the restaurant’s setting in Boulder’s leafy Chautauqua Park with the iconic Flatirons as a backdrop and the landmark Auditorium as a next door neighbor.

Three Leaf Concepts, Lenny and Sara Martinelli’s highly regarded restaurant company, has added the Chautauqua concession to their portfolio that includes such distinctive restaurants as the Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse, Aji, Leaf Vegetarian Restaurant and Zucca. Awards abound, which bodes well fro the Dining Hall.

Reports from a VIP media preview on Monday  praise the uncarpeting of the 1940s oak floors, the new fireplaces made with local field stone, the relocated bar topped with reclaimed maple flooring from an old boxcar, art on the walls and the food, of course. It was reportedly served as passed hors d’oevres, but those in attendance say they re looking forward to real meals — dinner only this evening and breakfast, lunch and dinner from here on in. Any past reviews linked from the UrbanSpoon listing below reflect former management and menu.

Chautauqua Dining Hall on Urbanspoon

 

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Old Major is Newest Highland Eatery

New gastropub features rustic-style decor, tightly focused pork- and seafood-centric menu and keg wines

P1010905There’s a literary reference to the name Old Major, chef Justin Brunson’s latest venture in the neighboring red hot restaurant districts west of the South Platte and I-25. In Highland, Old Major, named after the featured porker in George Orwell’s Animal Farm, sports the trendy rustic look utilizing reclaimed wood and hefty furniture, has a small menu (changing every two or three months, says Brunson) and a big vision of featuring the distinctive tastes of “seafood, swine and wine.” A cool slogan, and the adjective “fine” could accurately be attached to each.

Executive chef Justin Brunson caffeine loading during Old Major's opening.

Executive chef Justin Brunson caffeine loading during Old Major’s opening.

The upscale gastropub ‘s buzz built instantly from a soft opening over the weekend, a couple of private parties and a mid-day media preview today. The food at Old Major is both robust and sophisticated, but what also really impressed me is the restaurant’s ground-breaking policies in the food service biz. There are no bussers (those who bring the food-laden dishes also take the dirty ones away). In fact, there are just two levels of servers, a word that general manager Jonathan Greschler says actually isn’t used. because it implies a class system that is eschewed. Along the same egalitarian line, Brunson says they’ve hired cooks who might become chefs and waitstaff who might become restaurant owners. Additionally, to help staff on the road financial stability should they want to take out a loan or a mortgage, tips are added to each person’s paycheck rather than distributed nightly in cash. Real admirable policy which Greschler calls revolutionary in the restaurant industry. In other words, policy copycats welcomed.

Spacious gleaming kitchen, open to view. Other kitchen "amenities" include a wood-assisted pizza oven, meat-curing room, butchering area, smoker and much more.

Spacious gleaming kitchen, open to view. Other kitchen “amenities” include a wood-assisted pizza oven, meat-curing room, butchering area, smoker and much more.

For the media preview, along with fine adult beverages at each place, tasting plates were set on the table – one for every four guests. We happily sampled what was put in front of us, but dining guests are going to be using iPads while the bar menu will be printed on conventional paper.

Beverages include a  smart, sophisticated cocktail program plus Infinite Monkey Theorem wines from kegs (environmentally smart) and 22 world beers.

Beverages include a smart, sophisticated cocktail program plus Infinite Monkey Theorem wines from kegs (environmentally smart) and 22 world beers.

Pretzel rolls served with a ramekin of Colorado pork butter.

Pretzel twists served on a board with Colorado pork butter — a great variation on the theme of bread.

Potato puree serves as the plain foundation for the exotic black truffle-pistachio sausage. The sauce is an herbed escargot vinaigrette.

Potato puree serves as the plain foundation for the exotic black truffle-pistachio sausage. The sauce is an herbed escargot vinaigrette.

Seafood is grouped on the menu under "The Monger," which includes delicate smoked trout, the silky sturgeon rillettes and plump smoked mussels with honey-mustard sauce.

Seafood is grouped on the menu under “The Monger,” which includes delicate smoked trout, the silky sturgeon rillettes and plump smoked mussels with honey-mustard sauce.

 

This beautifully composed vegetarian option is a smart consideration in a state where not all diner crave pork.

This beautifully composed vegetarian option is a smart consideration in a state where not all diner crave pork.

Pan-seared striped bass with lemon risotto garnished with crisp leeks and cute little beets and turnips. A wonderful winter combination.

Pan-seared striped bass with lemon risotto garnished with crisp leeks and cute little beets and turnips. A wonderful winter combination.

Hefty pork chop, brined and pan-seared, then served with parsnip puree, Brussels sprouts, an Italian bacon called guadciale and pork demi.

Hefty pork chop, brined and pan-seared, then served with parsnip puree, Brussels sprouts, an Italian bacon called guadciale and pork demi.

Pastry chef Nadine Donovan concocted this towering meringue-topped olive oil cake, inspired by the classic baked Alaska.

Pastry chef Nadine Donovan concocted this towering meringue-topped olive oil cake, inspired by the classic baked Alaska.

Maple-bacon creme caramel, topped with a crisp slice of Denver Bacon Company's bacon. That's three bacons in one sentence, which is not surprising from a restaurant whose slogan contains the word "swine."

Maple-bacon creme caramel, topped with a crisp slice of Denver Bacon Company’s bacon. That’s three bacons in one sentence, which is not surprising from a restaurant whose slogan contains the word “swine.”

Price check: Small plates, $9-$17 (plus pan-seared foie gras for $25); The Farmer (vegetarian), salads, $8  plus 3-course tasting menu, $30; The Butcher (meat entrées), $27-$30, plus 24-ounce bone-in ribeye, $60; The Monger (seafood entrées), $26-$30; sides $7.

Old Major on Urbanspoon

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CSA Fair in Fort Collins This Weekend

Grant Family Farms ‘orphans’ & others learn about other local farmers’ and ranchers’ CSAs

This logo is frp, The Calhoun School in Manhattan.

This logo is frp, The Calhoun School in Manhattan.

Be Local Northern Colorado hosts what its anticipates to be the first annual CSA Fair on Saturday, March 2 to give local residents a chance to meet and connect with farms and ranches in northern Colorado that operate Community Supported Agriculture programs. The event takes place at the Opera Galleria in downtown Fort Collins from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Grant Family Farms “orphans” take note. CSA members left high and dry with the farm’s unfortunate lapse into bankruptcy last year can shop around for a new one to join from the 20-plus in northern Colorado.

It seems unlikely that any foodie would be unaware of the CSA concept. But just in case, know that the initials stand for Community Supported Agriculture, a mutually beneficial commitment between a farmer and a community member to produce and purchase locally grown and raised foods. The most common model is vegetable “shares” in which people purchases “memberships” to a farm, which then supplies a “share” of the harvest throughout the vegetable growing season. Hereabouts, that is  roughly from May to October. A membership also engages people in the reality of farming in a difficult climate.

Be Local Northern Colorado, a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization, also operates the Winter Farmers’ Market at the Opera Galleria from November to April. If you are in north Colorado and haven’t been there yet, so go. The Opera Galleria is at 123 N. College Ave., Fort Collins.

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A Focus on Front Range CSAs

Community Support Agriculture brings farm-fresh to your table

This logo happens to be from The Calhoun School in Manhattan, but it looks generic enough to use here.

This logo happens to be from The Calhoun School in Manhattan, but it looks generic enough to use here.

Let’s thank the Boulder Daily Camera for an informative list of more than two dozen area farms and other purveyors with Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) programs. The majority offer pay-in-advance full, half and (sometimes) working shares for seasonal produce direct from individual growers. Share-holders get what it is freshest each week or two (depending on the schedule customers select). CSA boxes are delivered to local farmers’ markets or other central pick-up locations on a regular schedule during a season that generally runs from May or June until October.

In addition to the traditional veggies, fruits and flowers, some include eggs, soaps, honey, locally roasted coffee or flowers. Several offer meat (beef, lamb, pork, chicken, duck and even rabbit), and one offers wine. I knew you’d want to know. Settembre Cellars’ wines made from Colorado grapes are available at the 63rd Street Farm, which also offers pizza pick-up.

Another option is to have the shares come to you. Door to Door Organics, which partners with area farmers, brings fresh, organic produce and natural groceries right to your door. Weekly orders are customizable, there is no commitment so you can cancel at any time — and the farmers still are included in the process. For convenience and flexibility, this can’t be beat. Azure Standard, an Oregon-based family-owned company new to the Denver area, delivers organic products weekly to drop points along established routes. They source from a wider geographic area, which can be considered a benefit (more variety) or a drawback (larger carbon footprint). Azure Standard accepts orders of all sizes that are also customizable, but without the to-your-door convenience.

For the record, I’d love to buy a CSA share, but there are more vegetables that my husband won’t eat than those he will, and we are empty-nesters, so it’s a tad pointless. Besides, I like to buy in season at the Boulder County Farmers’ Market.

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Lunch at The Kitchen [Original]

Downtown Boulder restaurant’s ever excellent mid-day meal

001The Kitchen opened its doors on April 15, 2004, becoming the city’s first restaurant committed to aggressively sourcing organic ingredients, composting, using wind power, aggressive packaging and recycling and other environmentally conscious practices. And it was also a local farm-to-table pioneer.The folllowing year, the second floor became The Kitchen [Upstairs], introduced as a community lounge, and in 2011, The Kitchen [Next Door] opened as a less expensive community pub. The Kitchen concept was also extended to Denver. I’ve been to all of them since the last time I ate at the original Kitchen, so I was pleased to have lunch there. The food remains as excellent as I remember and the service was excellent, not to be taken for granted at lunch.

Thick slabs of rustic, crusty bread -- my favorite.

Thick slabs of rustic, crusty bread — my favorite.

The quiche of the comes with a well-dressed green salad.

The quiche of the day comes with a well-dressed mixed salad.

The currey chicken salad with hazelnuts, raisins and apple atop a pile of crisp greens.

The curry chicken salad with hazelnuts, raisins and apple atop a pile of crisp greens.

 
Steak frites made with Koberstein Ranch dry-aged beef with maitre d’hotel butter, beefy fries and a crisp green salad.

Price check: At lunch, starters, $9-$17; “Nibbles,” $6; “Light,” $7-$12; salads, $8-$17; sandwiches, $11-$14; mains, $15-$19.

The Kitchen on Urbanspoon

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