Category Archives: Food

Taste Buds Bloom at Botanic Gardens

P1020620Locals and lucky visitors know the Denver Botanic Gardens for their year-round horticultural displays outdoors and in the soaring conservatory, gardening classes, concerts, plant sales and Blossoms of Light every December. But the monthly cooking classes for adults (except in summer) and weekly classes for children (Fridays during the summer) are less well known.

Even less known than these culinary classes are the Gather dinners, pop-up feasts offered roughly quarterly with guests chefs from leading local restaurants presenting creative dinners for a maximum of 75 guests. Previous chefs were Alex Seidel of Fruition, Elise Wiggins of Panzano and Hosea Rosenberg, Blackbelly Catering and “Top Chef” Season 5 winner.

Yesterday evening was my first opportunity to experience a Gather dinner — and what an experience it was. Two long tables were set up in the narrow Orangerie with a garden view and indoor fruit trees in one direction and a view of the opulent conservatory plants in the other.

Chef Daniel Asher desscribing both his culinary philosophy and the next dish to Gather diners.

Chef Daniel Asher describing both his culinary philosophy and the next dish to Gather diners. Photo courtesy Denver Botanic Gardens.

Last evening’s guest chef was Daniel Asher from Root Down and Linger, two restaurants that have been on my Denver Dining bucket list since they opened. Asher created what he called a plant-centric four-course menu, more nuanced and elaborate that he could do in a restaurant dinner menu.

But I’m getting ahead of myself. The evening began with gorgeous ruby red cocktails mixed by Mike Henderson, who according to his two-sided business card is both Root Down’s “cocktail service tech” (which is yet another extension of “mixologist” and “bartender” before that) and also Linger’s “spiritual advisor” (which seems just plain whimsical).

Mike Henserson, mixing two drinks at a time.

Mike Henderson, mixing two drinks at a time.

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Then it was time to dine. Chef Asher is a gifted culinarian and committed advocate of fresh and local products. He not only conceived of a brilliant menu full of veggie wonderfulness, but presented each dish artistically — and named each one cleverly. My friend friend and fellow foodie, Toni Dash, who has serious gluten issues, was able to clean the plate at each course, and even though the macadamia-sesame crust on the dessert was reportedly gluten-free, she avoided it — in case. Continue reading

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Zagat Picks Bull Balls as Colorado’s Signature Dish

Rocky Mountain Oyters featured yet again. Yawn…

Rocky Mountain Oysters from Denver's Buckhorn Exchange. (Zagat photo)

Rocky Mountain Oysters from Denver’s Buckhorn Exchange. (Zagat photo)

When Colorado is included in a food list, rather than ignored altogether, it seems as Rocky Mountain oysters (fried bull testicles for the few who don’t know) are discovered again and again and tediously again. In “The 50 Plates of America: A Culinary Journey Across the U.S.,” Zagat was just the latest to “discover” this specialty. Here’s what the Zagateers wrote:

While a rack of lamb may bear the state’s name throughout the glorious chain steakhouses that grace American highways, Rocky Mountain Oysters represent the state’s rugged reputation. The… ahem… delicate parts of a bull’s underbelly are (usually) deep-fried and go best with a side of rémoulade. Buckhorn Exchange, which dates back to 1893 and is an homage to Colorado’s frontier roots, might be the best place for newbies to test their adventurousness. Or if you’re looking for a little buzz while you partake, Denver’s Wynkoop Brewery even offers a Rocky Mountain Oyster Stout.

In truth, fried Rocky Mountain Oysters taste like a lot of other fried things, with the batter and he dipping sauce providing most of the flavor.There is nothing really “culinary” about their list — hot dogs were selected from Connecticut, my native state, and Iowa must live with the burden of deep-fried burgers.

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Enter to Win: Organic Pizza Makings Delivered

Cross-posted with Mile High On the Cheap THIS DRAWING IS NOW OVER.

EnterToWin Azure Standard is re-asserting itself in the metro Denver market with a large selection of high-quality organic food products sourced from around the country with particular emphasis on the West Coast. No membership is required. Customers place their orders online, with delivery initially once a month in this area. Click here for details on how their system works.

To introduce MHOTC readers to their products, Azure Standard offers the winner of this random drawing a selection DIY pizza-making products (value $32): Gluten Free Mama’s pizza crust mix (enough for one large thick-crust pizza or two small ones), 1 jar of Eden Organic Pizza-Pasta Sauce, 2 small cans of Natural Value sliced black olives, and 1 pound of Organic Pastures Truly Raw cheddar cheese. Also, for the winner’s ongoing pizza-making, one pizza roller and one 3½-inch pizza wheel.

To enter: leave a comment telling MHOTC your favorite pizza topping. Deadline is Tuesday, March 26 at 5 p.m. and the winner will be contacted by email. In case you are wondering, I tried the products, making two thin pizza crusts, one using just the ingredients supplied. For the other,I used fresh mozzarella and added slivered sun-dried tomatoes and fresh basil. I am not gifted with working with yeast dough, so he pizza won no beauty contest (hence o photo), but it was tasty enough — given that the ingredient compromises necessary to gluten-free foods sometimes affects the flavor.

I was impressed by the product range offfered by Azure Standard (and yes, I know it’s an unusual and non-intuitive name). Click here to order their catalog, which features organic packaged foods, and also fresh produce and dairy products.

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A Focus on Front Range CSAs

Community Support Agriculture brings farm-fresh to your table

This logo happens to be from The Calhoun School in Manhattan, but it looks generic enough to use here.

This logo happens to be from The Calhoun School in Manhattan, but it looks generic enough to use here.

Let’s thank the Boulder Daily Camera for an informative list of more than two dozen area farms and other purveyors with Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) programs. The majority offer pay-in-advance full, half and (sometimes) working shares for seasonal produce direct from individual growers. Share-holders get what it is freshest each week or two (depending on the schedule customers select). CSA boxes are delivered to local farmers’ markets or other central pick-up locations on a regular schedule during a season that generally runs from May or June until October.

In addition to the traditional veggies, fruits and flowers, some include eggs, soaps, honey, locally roasted coffee or flowers. Several offer meat (beef, lamb, pork, chicken, duck and even rabbit), and one offers wine. I knew you’d want to know. Settembre Cellars’ wines made from Colorado grapes are available at the 63rd Street Farm, which also offers pizza pick-up.

Another option is to have the shares come to you. Door to Door Organics, which partners with area farmers, brings fresh, organic produce and natural groceries right to your door. Weekly orders are customizable, there is no commitment so you can cancel at any time — and the farmers still are included in the process. For convenience and flexibility, this can’t be beat. Azure Standard, an Oregon-based family-owned company new to the Denver area, delivers organic products weekly to drop points along established routes. They source from a wider geographic area, which can be considered a benefit (more variety) or a drawback (larger carbon footprint). Azure Standard accepts orders of all sizes that are also customizable, but without the to-your-door convenience.

For the record, I’d love to buy a CSA share, but there are more vegetables that my husband won’t eat than those he will, and we are empty-nesters, so it’s a tad pointless. Besides, I like to buy in season at the Boulder County Farmers’ Market.

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Cochon555 Returning to Colorado

Vail is one of 10 stops for peripatetic pork competition and tasting event

Cochon555-logoI attended the Denver visit of the first year of the COCHON 555 tour and was blown away by the butchering, the food, the wine and the restaurant biz collegiality for many of the guests were chefs or others in the local hospitality business. (Click here for my report.) Alas, the event has never returned to the Mile High City, but Vail is the third of 10 stops in 2013 — the fifth anniversary of this event that was created to promote sustainable farming in general and heritage-breed pigs in particular.

It takes place at the Four Seasons Vail on Sunday, March 10 and features five chefs, five pigs and five winemakers. The chefs — Alex Seidel of Fruition, Hose Rosenberg of Blackbelly Catering, Jason Harrison of Flame Resturant in the Four Seasons Vail, Kelly Liken of Restaurant Kelly Liken and Lon Symensma of ChoLon — are challenged to prepare a menu from the entirety of one 200-pound family-raised heritage breed of pig, nose-to-tail.Bill Greenwood of Beano’s Cabin is doing the butchering, and Julian Smith of Bol Vail is preparing a “family meal” of barbecue. el

Twenty judges who are described as “culinary luminaries” and 400 guests help decide the winning chef by voting on the “best bite of the day.”. The winner will be crowned the Prince of Porc (or presumably Princess of Porc) and will compete at Grand Cochon event at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen on Sunday, June 16.

New additions in 2013 — some just for VIP level guests — include the launch of a cocktail competition called “Punch Kings” featuring Breckenridge Bourbon, prepared by six local bartenders, plus the new TarTare Bar round out the exclusive VIP hour. All attendees can watch butcher demonstrations, inhale sustainable oysters, taste creative pork dishes from all the chefs, pay a visit to the Manhattan Bar or new Chupito Bar featuring Mezcals, the amazing Cheese Bar, ice-cold brew from Anchor Brewing, pork-spiked desserts and cold-brewed coffee to close out the evening. Tickets are $125 to $150 plus a $10.38 to $14.75  service charge and can be ordered online. The Four Seasons Vail has lodging for those too comatose to go elsewhere!

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Boulder & Beyond Food Market News

Boulder markets expanding their reach

Alfalfas-logoBoulder-born Lucky’s and Boulder-reborn Alfalfa’s are spreading the gospel of fresh, organic, sustainable, natural and local beyond the borders of the People’s Republic. Alfalfa’s, whose slogan is “a Boulder original,” is  poised to open a second location at the site of an abandoned Safeway store at the corner of South Boulder Road and Centennial Drive in Louisville, which was so eager for this to happen that will grant the grocer a full rebate of the sales tax revenues it generates in the first
three years of operation to a maximum of $800,000 and other incentives. What a deal!

Luckys-logoLucky’s Market, an upstart that developed rapidly in space that once housed the North Boulder market has established itself as such a key player as a natural foods grocery store and also added the Bakehouse & Creamery and Lucky’s Cafe to bring first-rate fare to a part of Boulder that is growint quickly but has has real gaps in prepared foods to eat in or take out. Lucky’s is also spreading its Boulder approach to food not to adjacent communities but beyond to the cornbelt.

Lucky’s is in the process of launching the Lucky’s Farmers Market brand in the meat-and-potatoes heartland states of Wyoming, Montana, Nebraska, Iowa, Missouri, Kentucky, Indiana, Ohio and Michigan that have by and large been ignored by the natural foods industry. The first ones will open in such university towns as Columbia, Ohio, and Bozeman, Montana — call them Boulder equivalents. According to the website, the stores that will offer natural, organic and locally grown foods and also mainstream products at good prices. The executive team is well credentialed: CEO Patrick Gilliland (Wild Outs Markets and Sunflower Farmers Markets), president Bo Sharon (Lucky’s Market), senior vice president of business development Jason Brown (Dr. Andrew Weil and The Natural Apothecary, and Organic to Go) and director ofoperations and purchasing Tim Ovelie (Wild Oat Markets). With an area code of 425, the new company appears to be coalescing in Washington State.

DoorToDoorOrganics-logoThrough a partnershipwith Suburban Organics, Louisville’s, Door to Door Organics, one of the nation’s leading e-grocers operations in Colorado, Illinois, Missouri, and Michigan, is expanding into New Jersey, Delaware and Pennsylvania.These  two similarly minded companies have been working together since 2010, with Door to Door Organics helping Suburban Organics expand their product selection and improve their behind-the-scenes technology and operations.

KingSoopers-logoEven the big kahuna of big-time mainstream markets is doing something signficiant. King Soopers, part of the huge Kroger grocery empire known for enormous supermarkets that squat like islands in seas of asphalt parking lots, is now planning a smaller, more targeted urban market in the heart of Denver’s emergent Central Platte Valley neighborhoods. I’ll bet the residents can’t wait — though they will have to until late 2014 or early in the 2015.

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Grant Family Farms Filed for Bankruptcy

Now in its 60th year, ground-breaking Grant Family Farms in great peril

Visitors have traditionally been welcome at Grant Family Farms.

Visitors have traditionally been welcome at Grant Family Farms.

Northern Colorado’s Grant Family Farms files for Chapter 7 bankruptcy,” a headline in today’s Denver Post, hit like a dagger. “Grant Family Farms closes, files for bankruptcy,” was a headline in yesterday’s Coloradoan, the Fort Collins paper that I don’t regularly read but looked at with bated breath after I read the Post piece. Both papers reported essentially the same sad story.

 Established in 1953, Grant Family Farms was Colorado’s first to be a Certified Organic grower and with some 4,500 CSA members, is one of the country’s large Community Supported Agriculture growers. It pioneered not only CSA agriculture, in sustainable practices and in a commitment to heritage produce and farmyard animals reportedly filed for Chapter 7 bankruptcy on December 28. Drought, unpredictable economic circumstances and in my opinion, government policies that favor corporate agriculture over family farms. Whether or not the 2,000-acre farm near Wellington between Fort Collins and the Wyoming state line will be able emerge from bankruptcy is still and open question, but its 4,500 CSA share holders and other customers in uneasy suspense.

Beautiful kitchen gardens like this, additional acreage of organically gown produce and scores of humanely raised animals were charactistic of Grant Famly Farms.

Beautiful kitchen gardens like this, additional acreage of organically gown produce and scores of humanely raised animals were charactistic of Grant Famly Farms.

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