I finally have had a chance to sink my teeth into The Gyro’s Journey
, a lovely little guidebook by food writers Joey Porcelli
and Clay Fong
to some of Colorado’s wonderful eateries. The book’s subtitle is “Affordable Ethnic Eateries along the Front Range.” It’s really a guide to those restaurants in the Denver/Boulder area. The two southernmost are in Centennial. The two northernmost are in Longmont
. There’s nothing from Fort Collins or Colorado Springs or Pueblo (all Front Range cities). While is fine with me personally, because this is where I live too, some foodies might appreciate a wider geographic spread.
The book spotlights 53 worthy restaurants, organized by type of cuisine, though in some cases, an ethnic category contains just one restaurant. For example, the Oriental Food Market in Boulder is the only Indonesian eatery, the Cafe Prague the only one under Czech Republic, Little Europe the only Ukrainian/Russian, White Eagle the only Polish, the Celtic Tavern the only Irish place and so on. Some other ethnic categories include only two entries.
The Gyro’s Journey does not purport to be comprehensive in the manner of Susan Permut’s Adventures in Eating series, the last of which was, I believe, published in the mid-1990s. Her Denver’s Ethnic Restaurants, for example, covered nearly 150 eateries in roughly the same geographic area as The Gyro’s Journey. Porcelli and Wong devoted more time and space to each restaurant
The great strength of The Gyro’s Journey lies in the thoroughness and tone of each write-up, invariably an admiring tribute to the restaurant, to its ethnic tradition and often to the individual owner and/or chef. Visit a restaurant vicariously with Porcelli and Wong, and you’ll feel as if you’ve been there before you walk through the door.
If they are contemplating writing Another Gyro’s Journey, I hope that in the Boulder area alone, they will consider including Pupusa’s (Salvadorian/Mexican), Mina’s Latin Restaurant (Mexican), China Gourmet,Khow Thai, Proto’s (great if yuppified pizza), Cafe Gondolier (southern Italian “with Italian-American flare” — a phrase that I coined to make you smile), Kim Food to Go (Vietnamese and Chinese; take-out only). Denver offers Cebiche (Peruvian) and Lakewood boasts Virgilio’s (pizza with just one degree of separation from its southern Italian roots).
Unless and until they do, The Gyro’s Journey
should be enough to hold us all. It was published by Fulcrum Publishing and costs $12.95. You might also want to check out the authors’ blog