Category Archives: Chef

Taste Buds Bloom at Botanic Gardens

P1020620Locals and lucky visitors know the Denver Botanic Gardens for their year-round horticultural displays outdoors and in the soaring conservatory, gardening classes, concerts, plant sales and Blossoms of Light every December. But the monthly cooking classes for adults (except in summer) and weekly classes for children (Fridays during the summer) are less well known.

Even less known than these culinary classes are the Gather dinners, pop-up feasts offered roughly quarterly with guests chefs from leading local restaurants presenting creative dinners for a maximum of 75 guests. Previous chefs were Alex Seidel of Fruition, Elise Wiggins of Panzano and Hosea Rosenberg, Blackbelly Catering and “Top Chef” Season 5 winner.

Yesterday evening was my first opportunity to experience a Gather dinner — and what an experience it was. Two long tables were set up in the narrow Orangerie with a garden view and indoor fruit trees in one direction and a view of the opulent conservatory plants in the other.

Chef Daniel Asher desscribing both his culinary philosophy and the next dish to Gather diners.

Chef Daniel Asher describing both his culinary philosophy and the next dish to Gather diners. Photo courtesy Denver Botanic Gardens.

Last evening’s guest chef was Daniel Asher from Root Down and Linger, two restaurants that have been on my Denver Dining bucket list since they opened. Asher created what he called a plant-centric four-course menu, more nuanced and elaborate that he could do in a restaurant dinner menu.

But I’m getting ahead of myself. The evening began with gorgeous ruby red cocktails mixed by Mike Henderson, who according to his two-sided business card is both Root Down’s “cocktail service tech” (which is yet another extension of “mixologist” and “bartender” before that) and also Linger’s “spiritual advisor” (which seems just plain whimsical).

Mike Henserson, mixing two drinks at a time.

Mike Henderson, mixing two drinks at a time.

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Then it was time to dine. Chef Asher is a gifted culinarian and committed advocate of fresh and local products. He not only conceived of a brilliant menu full of veggie wonderfulness, but presented each dish artistically — and named each one cleverly. My friend friend and fellow foodie, Toni Dash, who has serious gluten issues, was able to clean the plate at each course, and even though the macadamia-sesame crust on the dessert was reportedly gluten-free, she avoided it — in case. Continue reading

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Frank Bonanno’s New Pizza Place

Bonanno Brothers Pizzeria debuts at Park Meadows

BonannoBrothers-logoFrank Bonanno, one of Denver’s brightest star chefs and most prolific restaurateurs, opens Bonanno Brothers Pizzeria today at The Vistas at Park Meadows, a cluster of (mostly chain) restaurants near the Park Meadows Mall. Even though Bonanno Brothers Pizzeria is the tenth member of Bonanno Concepts, a restaurant group that includes Mizuna, Luca d’Italia, Bones, Osteria Marco, Green Russell, Wednesday’s Pie, Lou’s Food Bar, Russell’s Smokehouse and Vesper Lounge, it will surely be as distinctive as the other nine.

The exterior of Bonanno Brothers Pizzas fits in well with the Park Meadows style of modern-day grandiosity, while the interior was inspired by the railroad station in Florence. (Phonto courtey Bonanno Concepts)

The exterior of Bonanno Brothers Pizzas fits in well with the Park Meadows style of modern-day grandiosity, while the interior was inspired by the railroad station in Florence. (Photo courtesy Bonanno Concepts)

Bonanno Brothers Pizzeria is a tribute to Bonanno’s days growing up in New Jersey with his Sicilian family, folding pizza boxes at the local pizzeria in exchange for a slice of pizza—the days where his passion for pizza and Italian food really took root. “The pizzeria is a direct reference to my family in a couple of ways,” Bonanno says. The family construction company is called Bonanno Brothers, and since he had already named restaurants after his sons, Luca d’Italia and Osteria Marco, honoring the family seemed like a good idea.

Bonanno Brothers Pizzeria’s menu is casual and meant for communal dining. The decor was inspired by the Art Deco train station in Florence (Italy, not Colorado), and it features an open kitchen with an Italian wood-fire oven with skilled pizza makers, cheese mongers and charcutiers plying their trades. Bonanno enlisted executive chef David Lindberg, previously of Luca d’Italia, to execute the menu. Wine director Kelly Wooldridge and beverage director Adam Hodak have creafed a beverage mnu featuring draft wines, craft cocktails on tap and microbrews that elevate Bonanno Brothers far above the regular New Jersey pizza parlor.

Urbanspoon hsan’t yet found the pizzeria, which is at 8439 Park Meadows Center Drive, Lone Tree, 303-799-8900.

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Asher to Cook at Botanic Gardens’ Next “Gather”

Root Down and Linger chef at the quarterly event

DenverBotanicGardens-logoWord is that Daniel Asher, whose cuisine I have yet to try at either of his Denver restaurants, Root Down and Linger, will be cooking for the Denver Botanic Gardens’ next Gather event on April 30. The fact that I’ve never eaten at either of restaurants where Asher captains the kitchen has nothing to do with desire but a lot to do with the challenge in getting reservations at a desired time. This pop-up dinner is presented by the Denver Botanic Gardens, in partnership with Catering by Design.

Asher, like the Gather chefs before him (Top Chef Hosea Rosenberg, Fruition’s Alex Seidel and Panzano’s Elise Wiggins), is developing a special menu for the event. Each Gather event is limited to 75 attendees, served at a long family-style table in Denver Botanic Garden’s Orangery, features four courses of seasonally inspired cuisine. I’m thrilled to have been invited next week, and I promise to report back. Gather is always BYOB, and I’ll have to drink judiciously since my husband, who is usually a good sport about driving home after a dinner out, declined the opportunity to attend. Call 720-865-3585 to check on last-minute ticket availablity for the event.

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Via Toscana’s Excellent Happy Hour Cuisine

Chef-made fare, fine ambiance & moderate prices in Louisville

P1020002Via Toscana is located in a standard suburban strip mall on Louisville’s busy McCaslin Boulevard, but other than the storefront, there’s nothing sandard about it. Enter through the heavy doors, and find  what was once a casual place mainly popular with the lunch crowd from nearby office buildings that is now an atmospheric Italian restaurant with reasonable prices and excellent food. At happy hour, Via Toscana is a real bargain for excellent Italian dishes rather than regular old pub fare that prevails elsewhere early in the evening. Happy hour is served in the bar — meaning at the bar, at high-top tables and cozy booths.

Low lights, lots of wood, white tablecloths and such other trappings of a serious restaurant were admirably created on what seems to have been a budget with economical plywood and off-the-shelf moldings, all stained an attractive walnut. A lot of exotic wood was spared with no sacrifice of appearance. This is a moderately priced restaurant with very good food. Little wonder, for chef Eric Johnson, captain of the kitchen, spent eight years at the Flagstaff House, ending his stint there as chef de cuisine — and there’s no better Colorado culinary credential than the Flagstaff House.

Lightly dressed Casear salald, ample for one and shareable by two.

Lightly dressed Casear salald, ample for one and shareable by two.

Rich and creamy risotto topped with a trio of grilled shrimp.

Rich and creamy risotto topped with a trio of grilled shrimp.

Hoouse-made gnocchi with marinara, fresh mozzarella and a bit of pesto.

House-made gnocchi with marinara, fresh mozzarella and a bit of pesto.

A scoop of deeply flavored gelato, whatever the flavor, is a perfrect cap to a happy hour selection or a full dinner.

A simple scoop of deeply flavored gelato, whatever the flavor, is a perfect end to a happy hour selection or a full dinner.

Price check: At happy hour, small plates are $1-$5. Happy hour gelato is $1 per scoop.

Via Toscana on Urbanspoon

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In Aspen, Local Girl Makes Pastry

Pastry chef Aleece Gallagher joins the swank Jerome

Aleece Gallagher's Seven-Layer Cake.

Aleece Gallagher’s Seven-Layer Cake.

Aleece Gallagher grew up in Basalt, the next town up the Roaring Fork Valley from Aspen. Her mother and grandmother baked, and so did young Aleece. As an elementary school pupil, she loved to create “baking recipes” She is  the new executive pasty chef at the legendary Hotel Jerome.in Aspen. Between grade school and the Jerome, she attended pastry school in Seattle, served as executive pastry chef of a premier West Coast catering company and specialized in wedding cakes for five years, and also owned a bistro/lounge with her husband. Upon returning to Colorado, she opened the Midland Bakery Co. in her old home town. She now helms the pastry division at the newly renovated and recently reopened Hotel Jerome, which now is calling itself the Hotel Jerome, An Auberge Resort.

“I appreciate Jerome’s emphasis on desserts as an extension of the overall experience,” she said in an interview. Gallagher’s baking philosophy is centered on the idea that the “best desserts are simple things done really well.” Similar to the hotel’s renovated look, Gallagher’s creations preserve the authenticity and wholesomeness of treasured classics while and look as wonderful a the taste.

At Prospect, the hotel’s new upscale bistro, and in the Living Room, the new lobby lounge , Gallagher’s specialties include her 7-Layer Chocolate Cake (four layers of chocolate cake separated by two layers of chocolate custard and one layer of salted caramel topped with crushed house-made toffee and chocolate cigarettes); Coconut Cream Pie with pineapple rum sauce, a local favorite from her bakery and Chocolate Marquis( thick square of chocolate mousse with a fan of hazelnut brittle and house-made marshmallow and topped with chocolate hazelnut ice cream). At the casual J Bar, guests can order hot chocolate with toasted raspberry marshmallow or other sweet treats.

I am going to Aspen in a couple of weeks, including a scheduled reception at the Jerome. I hope to taste some of Gallagher’s creations. In fact, there’ a slice of that cake, waiting to be baked, with my name on it. If I’m right and I can ample her baked goods, I’ll report.

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Colorado Represented by 2 Beard Finalists

The finalists for the James Beard Awards, which are often described as “coveted,” include two from Colorado: Chef Jennifer Jesinski, partner in Rioja, Bistro Vendome and Euclid Hall, is a finalist for Best Chef, Southwest. And Boulder’s Frasca Food & Wine is again a finalist in the Best Wine Service category. The nominee is, in effect, partner Bobby Stuckey, a master sommelier and mastermind behind Frasca’s wine list and meticulous service. We have to wait until May to find out whether either of them brings home the top category honor.

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F&W’s People’s Choice Ballots Now Online

PeoplesBestNewChef-logoFood & Wine magazine announces its annual selections for the 10 Best New Chefs in the country during the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. The winners appear on the cover of the magazine’s June issue, prepare dishes for a special reception during the Classic and have a chance to hobnob with storied chefs and others in the food and wine business.

There’s now also a People’s Choice award, with online balloting to select, well, the people’s choice among 10 chefs from10 regions. Along with Arizona and Texas, Colorado is considered to be in the Southwest region. The token Colorado chef is Max McKissock of The Squeaky Bean in Denver.. Eight Texans (mostly from Houston and Dallas, plus one from Austin. Click here for the online ballot and vote for Max if you want a Coloradan to win.

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