LOW Now in LoHi

Steamboat Springs restaurant’s new location in hot Denver ‘hood.

Two and a half years ago, I learned to appreciate Southern cooking at the original LOW Country Kitchen in Steamboat Springs. Click here for my epiphany. Now Brian and Katy Vaughn have brought LOW to Denver, specifically to LoHi. I love the synergy between these names.

The bar and some tables are located at street level, with the rest of the dining room behind, a few steps higher and separated by a high room-dividing wall. Gray and white are the dominant hues. The food, served family-style to our group of invited media, echoes the fare in Steamboat Springs.

Strawberry & Rhubarb Mash, a welcoming cocktail of Four Roses bourbon, charred strawberry and rhubarb shrub, lemon slide and Amaro Sfumato. I had to look up “shrub” as it pertained to a cocktail ingredient. Turns out that it dates back to Colonial times and refers to a pre-refrigeration way of preserving fragile fruits by make a syrup of them.

A quartet of light buttemilk biscuits languish under the cloth napkin awaiting Clark’s honey and/or preserves.
The prime components of LOW’s “deconstructed BLT” are a slab of pork belly, fried green tomatoes, pimento cheese and dabs of avocado dressing.
Second cocktail was a classic Sezerac — just because.
Collard greens to share don’t look all that great because they are dark, the little iron pot is black and the light at LOW is low, but they tasted really good. There’s bacon in them thar greens, so of course, they are tasty.
The vegetable salad is a study in contrast from the soft dark collards. The salad is all crisp and brightly colored with zucchini, summer squash, microgreens, radicchio and a slice of hard cheese.
A soup tureen of super-soft, almost runny mashed potatoes topped with fresh herbs.
A wedge of cornbread — better than squares for those who like the crisp outside,
Fried chicken as it should be- most and tender bird that is well-battered, crisp and hot.

We also sampled meaty pork ribs and shrimp and grits, but they disappeared from the serving plates before I could grab pix. Come to think of it, I think that happened in Steamboat Springs too.

Price check: Starters, $4-$13.75; Salad and Soups (one salad two soups on the menu), $9.50-$10.75; Suppers, $17.50-$22.75; Sides, $4.25-$7.75

LOW Country Kitchen is at 1575 Boulder Street, Denver, 720-512-4168.

Zomato.com hasn’t yet discovered LOW Country Kitchen.