Feasting at Farmer Girl

Lyons restaurant’s eclectic, pleasing cuisine.

015Last September, my husband and I stopped at a  small restaurant called LOCAL in Lyons en route home from Rocky Mountain National Park. As I wrote here, it was pleasant and the food was good. But for some reason — perhaps because there seemed to have been four or five people owning and/or running it. We all know the admonition about “too many cooks.”

The space is now named Farmer Girl, and one gifted person is in charge. Tim Payne, who ran Terroir on Longmont’s Main Street, is the chef at Farmer Girl, which calls itself a “community bistro.”  The decorative touches are fewer, as are the communal tables. But it has the same congenial vibe. Its motto is “local, sustainable food with soul.” Coming up later this month is the first dinner at the Lyons Farmette, a local artisanal farm. The good news for restaurant, farm and the Lyons Arts and Humanities Commission, for which it is a fundraiser,  is that it is sold out.

Long-time friends from New Jersey were coming to Estes Park for a wedding, we agreed to meet in the middle for dinner, and that meant Lyons and Farmer Girl. The simple menu lists seven each of small and large plates, plus a nice wine selection and other beverages and a couple of desserts. These change with availability of ingredients.

Farmer Girl Salad composed of Aspen Moon Farm greens, shaved baby turnips, carrots, sunflower seeds, and Parmesan with strawberry-herb vinaigrette.
Farmer Girl Salad composed of Aspen Moon Farm greens, shaved baby turnips, carrots, sunflower seeds, and Parmesan with strawberry-herb vinaigrette.
Mushroom Tartine features grilled mushrooms a fried egg laid by a local chicken, Aspen Moon Farm greens, ricotta and grilled bread,
Mushroom Tartine features grilled mushrooms a fried egg laid by a local chicken, Aspen Moon Farm greens, ricotta and grilled bread.
Dark meat in a pool of dark sauce with a dark green vegetable doesn't make for the best image, but the taste of the lamb Bolognese made with local meat, local greens and house-made pappardelle and Parmesan is rich and fabulous.
Dark meat in a pool of dark sauce with a dark green vegetable doesn’t make for the best image, but the taste of braised flat-iron beef  with potatoes, greens and milk stout demi-glace s rich and fabulous.

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