Aloy Thai Opening Today in Denver

Expanded, enhanced branch of Boulder restaurant in Ballpark area.

037When they selected  February 1, sisters Bo Bean and Arisa Chanchokpong didn’t pick the most auspicious day to open Aloy Modern Thai, an uptick from their Boulder eatery.  Big snows are forecast for this evening, and I’m not sure what the chefs they’ve brought in from Asia will make of it. But snow melts and warm weather will arrive, and by then, I’m guessing that Denverites will have come to appreciate Aloy’s food, as Boulderites have taken to the original. Smaller than the Denver location and set in a Boulder strip mall, it certainly is one of the best in town.

I got a chance to sample an infinite procession of dishes during a media preview last week on an evening mild enough for a pleasant walk from the 16th Street Mall. Located in in the former Trillium space on Larimer Street, its decorative makeover was largely cosmetic.  In addition to Thai classics, there is a definite Japanese undercurrent that appears here and there on the menu.

Guests were presented with 18 courses along with sips of a like number of excellent and unusual beverages to match. Even with modest tasting samples. The menu boasts of a farm-to-table connection and lists farms from which they source seasonal ingredients are sourced.  The food was dazzling. Here goes with a sample of the sampling, as it were:

Passed hors d'oeuvres included Cracking Tofu.
Passed hors d’oeuvres included Crackling Tofu with shitake bacon, a roll of cucumber and miso sauce.
Smoked Verlasso salmon, a premium farmed salmon from Chile. It is served on an arched yucca chip with orange aioli.
Smoked Verlasso salmon, a premium farmed salmon from Chile. It is served on an arched yucca chip with orange aioli.

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Crisp-fried alligator the Thai herbs and a spicy black pepper sauce.
Crisp-fried alligator the Thai greens and a spicy black pepper sauce.
Mason jar holds a tofu and pomelo salad with herbs and a spicy lemongrass dressing.
Mason jar holds a tofu and pomelo salad with herbs and a spicy lemongrass dressing.
Tom Kah, one of two soups served, features chicken, fresh herbs and mushrooms in coconut milk with a skim of chile oil.
Tom Kah, one of two soups served, features chicken, fresh herbs and mushrooms in coconut milk with a splash of chile oil.
Kobe tendertail with grilled shishito peppers, chile jam and seasonal vegetables.
Kobe tendertail with grilled shishito peppers, chile jam and seasonal vegetables.
Every Thai restaurant makes the noodle dish called Pad Thai. Aloy's is really good AND is topped with whole shrimp.
Every Thai restaurant makes the noodle dish called Pad Thai.  Aloy’s is really good AND is topped with whole shrimp.
Peanut butter semifreddo and mango sorbet with ground pistachios (called
Peanut butter semifreddo and mango sorbet with ground pistachios (called “pistachio soil” on the menu.
A disk of moist cake + cream + sliced fresh strawberry + chopped nuts = Aloy's Strawberry Cupcake. Add a scoop of lemon sorbet for good measure.
A disk of moist cake + cream + sliced fresh strawberry + chopped nuts = Aloy’s Strawberry Cupcake. Add a scoop of lemon sorbet for good measure.

Price check: Small plates, $8-$14; Siam Salads, $9-$12; green salads, $6-$16; soups, $5-$8; noodles and rice, $15-$20; curries, $15-$20; large plates, $20-$30; side orders, $3-$6.

Aloy Modern Thai at 2134 Larimer Street, Denver; 303-397-9497. Regardless of what Zomato.com believes, it is on the fringes of the Ballpark area, not in LoDo.

Aloy Modern Thai Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato