Morsels at Mercantile

Small plates shine at Seidel’s ultra-cool Union Station eatery & market.

003When we have theater tickets in Denver, we usually drive from Boulder, park in a garage and grab a bite somewhere near the Denver Center for the Performing Arts. Yesterday, we decided to be greener and took the bus, giving us an opportunity to try a Union Station restaurant. We passed the set-up for the watch party for Governor Hickenlooper’s re-election that was to occupy the grand hall and continued to the end of one of the corridors to Mercantile Dining & Provisions, Alex Seidel’s restaurant, bar, food market and all-round cool space.

Looking past the marketplace toward the dining room.
Looking past the marketplace toward the dining room.
The cheese case. Elsewhere are the salumi and dessert cases.
The cheese case. Elsewhere are the salumi and dessert cases.

Mercantile is pricey if all you think about is quantity, but based on quality and creativity, it’s a bargain. Being on the way to a high-energy production of “Kinky Boots,” we wanted to eat light, were happy with a couple of small plates, a bit of wine and the attractive and energizing Euro-market ambiance — and didn’t break the bank either.

Innovative presentation of oysters and chips. Potatoes cut into long, thin strips and wrapped around Maitake mushrooms and fried, with luscious fried oysters, malt vinegar aioli and malt vinegar mayo with Brussels sprout slaw. imaginative and a delicious contrast of textures.  tastes and temperature.
Innovative presentation of oysters and chips. Potatoes cut into long, thin strips and wrapped around Maitake mushrooms and fried, with luscious fried oysters, malt vinegar aioli and malt vinegar mayo with Brussels sprout slaw. imaginative and a delicious contrast of textures. tastes and temperature.
Fruition Farms ricotta gnocchi with tomato-marrow sauce, in place of the lamp ragout that regularly comes on this dish because my husband doesn't care for lamb.
Fruition Farms ricotta gnocchi with tomato-marrow sauce, in place of the lamp ragout that regularly comes on this dish because my husband doesn’t care for lamb.

Price check:  At dinner, snacks,  $6-$9; appetizers, $11-$14; soups and salads, $14-$15; pastas, $11-$14; vegetables, $13-$15; seafood, $26-$30; meat and poultry, $20-$30; ice cream and sorbet, $3 each; desserts, $10.

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