Denver outpost of New York-born steakhouse
After my friend Laura and I shared a 2012 summer special for two in a popular downtown steakhouse, I wrote “Lovin’ the Lobster Special at The Palm.” Now, we returned between Laura’s and my birthdays with my husband and our friend, Teresa, for some more traditional steakhouse fare in a suitably traditional and immaculate steakhouse setting: first-rate beef that is expertly cooked, good seafood, no-frills arrangement on the plate, side dishes all à la carte and portioned to share. The menu is price-free, and even though the waitress knew that we were celebrating two birthdays, nothing — not a single thing — was offered compliments of the house.
The Palm is far pricier than places we generally frequent, but Laura’s dad sent her a generous gift card — and she generously shared. Among us we ordered a couple of cuts of meat, a cut-down portion of huge crab cakes and creamed spinach, which has appeared on every steakhouse menu since Noah got off the Ark. We did avoid another steakhouse standby, the iceberg lettuce wedge with blue cheese dressing, because it’s one thing to splurge on first-quality meat but another to pay a lot for the cheapest, least interesting lettuce in the supermarket. At The Palm, you don’t pay for presentation because no one heard of presentation in 1926, when the first Palm opened its doors in midtown Manhattan, and little has changed since then. Here’s our double-birthday dinner:
Price check: Stratospheric; you don’t want to know.