Star chef’s bean-to-bar atelier opens tomorrow
Having just written about the new Bocuse Restaurant replacing the former Escoffier Restaurant at the Culinary Institute of America, I have la cuisine français on my mind. Now comes word via David Liebovitz’s Living the Sweet Life in Paris about a new venture from super-chef “Alain Ducasse…along with pastry chef Nicolas Berger, who is now running La Manufacture de chocolat, their chocolate atelier not far from the center of the city.” Liebovitz, an American pastry chef and Chez Panisse alum who now lives in and blogs from Paris, points out that the “bean-to-bar” concept actually started in the US and is one of the few (other than the unforunate migration of American fast food) to transfer from here to there.
Liebovitz notes, “It’s very hard to make chocolate on a small-scale and I was skeptical when friends launched the first of those businesses way-back-when in America, which has become very successful.”
Ducasse is a notable chef, restaurateur, hotelier and owner of Ecole Cuisine Alain Ducasse, a cooking school in Paris (they offer classes in English too). Liebovitz’s most recent blog post, “La Manufacture de chocolat Alain Ducasse,” describes Chef Ducasse’s newest venture, a five-year process of bringing this American concept to Paris. It features wonderful images of the process that begins with roasting chocolate beans and ends with mouth-watering chocolate bars. Liebovitz also relates his own work with chocolate while still in the Bay area.
Liebovitz’s very French directions to the manufacture and atelier include the not just the address and phone number but also the arrondissement and the Métro stop: 40, rue de la Roquette (11th) Métro: Bastille Tél: 01 48 05 82 86. He adds that it is open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.