The third course combined assorted flavors and textures of the western Mediterranean: Spanish octopus that was both sweet and tender in a medley with squid ink-piquillo pasta, Basque chiles, pilquiilo peppers, crisp preserved lemons, poached orange zest and harissa toast. Wine: 2010 Torres Vina, Penedes -- a charmed Muscatel and Gewurztraminer blend.

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