Ballpark-born Snooze is a good fit in Boulder
Every so often, I have made it to the original Snooze – An A.M. Eatery in Denver’s vibrant Ballpark neighborhood. In fact, its fair to say that Snooze is largely responsible for setting off the vibrancy. It was a pioneering restaurant catering to a yuppie clientele in a decidedly downscale area of pawnshops, dive bars and low-rent apartments. Its hip Atomic Age decor and great breakfast and brunch menu quickly won kudos and a faithful following that seems unabated. There are now Snoozes in a variety of locations — an interesting Denver neighbhorhood (Capitol Hill), a sterile shopping/dining development (the Streets of SouthGlenn, which Snooze prefers to think of as SoGlo), a northern Colorado college town (Fort Collins) and out of state (San Diego) — and as some would think, in another country (the People’s Republic of Boulder), where it is one of a small trend of new breakfast-oriented restaurants. As at the original Snooze and presumably others in the group, lines build morning after morning at the Boulder Snooze.
Snooze took root just a couple of blocks east of the Pearl Street Mall, and my husband and I finally got there this morning. Before 8 a.m. was family time. I would venture to guess that at least 40 percent of the other tables included toddlers in highchairs, infants in those plastic baby carriers and slightly older kids in booths or even at the bar, happily crayoning with art supples that the restaurant has on hand. The menu was like the Denver menu, but we each tried dishes we hadn’t had before — coincidentally, both variations on the theme of Benedict. The eggs were poached in the round, served with a thick disk of crisped potatoes and the oval plates were sprinkled with chopped parsley, a retro garnish.