Boulder has become such a center of artisanal pizza that I was astonished when Nederland’s Backcountry Pizza announced it would open in Boulder — in the large space vacated when Dolan’s closed. Could they possibly make it against Pizzeria da Lupo, Pizzeria Basta and Pizzeria Locale, like Backcountry east of the Pearl Street Mall and either on Pearl or Arapahoe. I needn’t have been concerned. If a recent visit visit is any indication, they are doing just fine, thank you. Maybe it’s the pizza, which lays no claim to Neapolitan purity. Maybe it’s the other stuff on the menu — some Italian dishes, others not. Maybe it’s the family-friendliness (there’s a game room now). Maybe it’s the 50 beers on tap, because the restaurant’s whole name is Backcountry Pizza & Tap House.
The dining room doesn’t look much different from the Dolan days with cozy booths hugging the walls and mid-room tables just out there, a coffered ceiling and tile floor, and I didn’t go into the bar — though I’m sure there a more beer taps than before, a lot more. Twenty-somethings and families with young kids seemed to comprise the majority of the guests. Older kids were in the game room.
Price check: At dinner, appetizers, $3-$8; soup and salad, also $3-$8; burges, $8-$9; sanwiches, 6-imch for $7 and 12-inch for $12, including pickle and choice of chips, french fries, pasta salad, potato salad, and small house salad or cup of soup; regular pizza, $9 for a small to $19 for $19 for an extra-large, plus additional toppings; specialty pizzas, $15-$25 for those sizes;