First Bites at Denver’s New Four Seasons

EDGE Restaurant and hotel banquet service combine to put out an elegant spread

The highly anticipated Four Seasons Hotel, Denver and its EDGE Restaurant opened to rave reviews in October. My anticipation remained on hold until yesterday evening. The hotel had been selected for the regional (and totally unofficial)sub-chapter of the Society of American Travel Writers’ annual holiday party, and I happily got dressed up for a party at the Four Seasons and the chance to try the food.

The landmark D&F Tower rendered in gingerbread is a warm, welcoming holiday touch in the hotel's spare, elegant lobby.

At this time of year, the Four Season’s strong clean lines, expensive materials and refined sense of design are softened by holiday decorations, including a gingerbread version of the May D&F Tower, trees, lights and wreaths.

The long view from the bar area. Again, elegance and simplicity reign.

The evening started with cocktails and hors d’oeuvre in the EDGE bar’s sit-down lounge area where we all stood around, sipping and nibbling the passed appetizers. The Rocky Mountain Sushi and sliders were from the regular bar menu, but other items might have been from the private-events menu. All were beautifully presented and delicious, and I’m of the opinion that top hotels must have both good catering/private event operations and good restaurants.  If this party was an indication, the Four Seasons passed with flying colors.

The lovely private function room was arranged with one long, immaculate banquet table set with beautiful centerpieces, gold chargers, an encouraging number of wine glasses and attentive waiters.


The Holiday Season Menu

We were served a three-course, set menu. EDGE prides itself on its beef, and a thick-cut tenderloin was the main feature of this private dinner. A vegetarian option was also available.

Smooth butternut squash soup, reddened perhaps with tomato, garnished with citrus lump crab.
Beef tenderloin subtly crusted with thyme and porcini and cooked medium served atop disks of mushroom potato gratin and garlic spinach, with mustard sauce. The balanced flavors were subtle rather than aggressive.
Luscious espresso pot du creme, preapred in flat dishes rather than "pots," with pistacchio biscotti and a scoop of vanilla ice cream in turn topped with lacy dark chocolate.

The EDGE describes itself as a “progressive American steakhouse.” Last night provided an opportunity to figuratively nibble around the edge of EDGE. Based on the little I saw from the bar area where we gathered before dinner, it arrived on the Denver scene as a stylish, special-occasion or expense-account restaurant. It has a pricy menu, a good wine list, a swank bar, a private dining room and the option of a chef’s table for small groups of convivial foodies. IMHO, it’s a good sign for the economy when a high-caliber restaurant takes root in this (or any) city.

Edge Restaurant on Urbanspoon

2 thoughts on “First Bites at Denver’s New Four Seasons”

  1. My wife and I ate at Edge a couple of weeks ago with 2 other couples and we’ve decided to give them a 2nd chance because NOBODY does absolutely everything wrong on an average night, which was what we experienced. There had to be something else going on that night for us to have been forgotten about so many times…

  2. I was in one of those pampered private parties, with only drinks and hors d’oeuvre in the lounge before heading upstairs to a private room for a set-menu dinner. Your experience is really surprising (shocking?) considering that EDGE opened in October. One would think that, given the stellar Four Seasons reputation, two months of serving three meals a day would be enough to get their act together. Three friends and I recently had lunch at Oak at Fourteenth in Boulder and also experienced the service flaws that can be expected in a new restaurant. But Oak is smaller, was newer when we were there and did a lot right. We too will return when they’ve ironed out the kinks.

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